Another comfortable night and I was able to get everything ready and sorted in my two new bags. My shuttle arrived right on time and I was able to check in at Sydney airport. Because I am going on Qantas to LA and then on jetBlue to Boston I wasn't able to check my bags through to Boston. I have about a three hour wait between flights so I am hoping we are on time.
The flight to LA was actually not too bad, except that there is so little room between seat rows in economy -- and when the person in front of you decides to put their chair back you really feel kind of claustrophobic. I amused myself watching innumerable movies, TV comedies and every once in a while checking to see where we were. Luckily I was able to get an aisle seat, so I could get up and move around when I wanted.
Finally reached LA where I picked up my bags and went over to jetBlue to check in. I hadn't figured on having to pay for the extra check-in bag since I thought it was just going to be checked through to LA, but because I was on two different airlines they got me. I was also once again reminded of the difference between the relatively easy domestic flights in Australia and the whole procedure for international and US flights (take off your shoes, 3 oz of liquids in carry-ons, etc). Welcome back....
After a 15 hour flight, my LA to Boston flight of about five and a half hours seemed like nothing, but I did feel pretty pooped by the time we arrived at Logan. I was waiting at the baggage carousel for my stuff when I felt a hand on my shoulder, and it was CELIA! She surprised me and came to meet me, which was the most wonderful way to return. We took a taxi back to the PP2, with me jabbering most of the way about my trip and the two of us so happy to see each other. After spending some time with me at home she got on the bus to go back to her place.
I really feel so blessed to have such wonderful and thoughtful kiddos, and at each end of the trip there was something special and memorable for me that made the ending of my adventure a bit less difficult. I am a lucky mum.....
Tuesday, May 31, 2011
Is It Wednesday, Already?
I can't believe it is my last full day here in Australia. In some ways it seems so long ago that I arrived and even seems long ago that I was with the tour group, but now that I have reached the end of my stay it has seemed to go by so quickly. This morning there was still loads of rain and it was very windy but the weather is supposed to be better in the Blue Mountains, which is about two hours north of Sydney. I had breakfast in the hostel and was talking to the guy who runs the place (very nice guy). When I told him we were planning to go to the Blue Mountains he asked if I wanted to see his photos of his trip there, and then showed me a photo of someone holding an umbrella with total fog behind her. Too funny. This is really the first bad weather I have had while here, so I think I have been pretty lucky. I got everything and met Ethan as planned at the bus shelter across from my place and we rode the bus into Sydney. Unfortunately it was rush hour and by the time we got to Central Station we had missed our intended train, so we had to wait an hour for the next one. That would have been fine except for some screaming and crying and totally annoying children, which made Ethan a bit cranky.
At Katoomba station it wasn't raining but was still pretty chilly, so as we walked up Katoomba Street on the way to our destination I bought a woolly hat which really helped.
The Blue Mountains is a World Heritage area with lots of incredible scenery and natural sights, and many trails and areas in which to walk and enjoy it all. There are so many things to see and do, but we chose a pretty active but somewhat abbreviated plan as we had to make sure to get the train back at a reasonable time. Also, as I mentioned, the sun sets rather quickly, and you don't want to be out walking in the middle of the wilderness when total darkness descends. One of the amazing and interesting features of the Blue Mountains is that there really is this blue-hazed beauty that you can see.
We walked from the station to Echo Point (a pretty long walk!) and the Katoomba Forest, and were able to look over to the Three Sisters rock formation. From there we decided to walk down the Giant Staircase (over 800 steps) - the scenery was beautiful and we chatted with various people who were also walking, in particular a man from DC who was visiting his daughter, also at UNSW and coincidentally in the same Marine Environment class as Ethan. It was quite a long and tiring walk, and at the end of the Staircase we walked another 2.5km to the Scenic Railway. There we got on the railway cars that looked like an amusement park ride open train. When you get in you are facing backwards and the way you sit makes you lean back. The reason is quickly apparent, as the cars shoot VERY quickly up a very long and steep track, and you are facing the bottom looking down and trying hard not to fall out. Ethan and I of course chose the front seat and it was fabulous!
The railway ended at a different place than where we originally entered, and our walk back to town was almost completely uphill, and fairly steep hills at that. Somehow we managed to get back to the station in time to catch the earlier train, so we got into Sydney early. We arrived only to find that it was still raining and very chilly, so instead of staying in Sydney for dinner we decided to go back to Coogee. After again trying to decide where to eat we ended up back at Five-O, our favourite hang-out. With the rain chucking down it seemed the best place to enjoy our wonderful meal and my last round of Pure Blondes. Back at Ethan's for after-dinner goon and Tim Tams and we watched the all-star Aussie footie game between New South Wales and Queensland. All too soon it was time to say goodnight and goodbye, as Ethan's friend Veronica is arriving early in the morning and he is going to the airport to meet her. My plane is at 1:00pm and I have booked a shuttle to the airport at 9:15. It has been so wonderful being with Ethan and having the opportunity to soend all this time with him, and I am really going to miss him a lot. I can't believe I am actually going back - even though I knew it was coming I guess I am never quite ready. It has been an incredible adventure, a real learning experience, a fabulous holiday and another small step for me in creating a life for myself.
At Katoomba station it wasn't raining but was still pretty chilly, so as we walked up Katoomba Street on the way to our destination I bought a woolly hat which really helped.
The Blue Mountains is a World Heritage area with lots of incredible scenery and natural sights, and many trails and areas in which to walk and enjoy it all. There are so many things to see and do, but we chose a pretty active but somewhat abbreviated plan as we had to make sure to get the train back at a reasonable time. Also, as I mentioned, the sun sets rather quickly, and you don't want to be out walking in the middle of the wilderness when total darkness descends. One of the amazing and interesting features of the Blue Mountains is that there really is this blue-hazed beauty that you can see.
We walked from the station to Echo Point (a pretty long walk!) and the Katoomba Forest, and were able to look over to the Three Sisters rock formation. From there we decided to walk down the Giant Staircase (over 800 steps) - the scenery was beautiful and we chatted with various people who were also walking, in particular a man from DC who was visiting his daughter, also at UNSW and coincidentally in the same Marine Environment class as Ethan. It was quite a long and tiring walk, and at the end of the Staircase we walked another 2.5km to the Scenic Railway. There we got on the railway cars that looked like an amusement park ride open train. When you get in you are facing backwards and the way you sit makes you lean back. The reason is quickly apparent, as the cars shoot VERY quickly up a very long and steep track, and you are facing the bottom looking down and trying hard not to fall out. Ethan and I of course chose the front seat and it was fabulous!
The railway ended at a different place than where we originally entered, and our walk back to town was almost completely uphill, and fairly steep hills at that. Somehow we managed to get back to the station in time to catch the earlier train, so we got into Sydney early. We arrived only to find that it was still raining and very chilly, so instead of staying in Sydney for dinner we decided to go back to Coogee. After again trying to decide where to eat we ended up back at Five-O, our favourite hang-out. With the rain chucking down it seemed the best place to enjoy our wonderful meal and my last round of Pure Blondes. Back at Ethan's for after-dinner goon and Tim Tams and we watched the all-star Aussie footie game between New South Wales and Queensland. All too soon it was time to say goodnight and goodbye, as Ethan's friend Veronica is arriving early in the morning and he is going to the airport to meet her. My plane is at 1:00pm and I have booked a shuttle to the airport at 9:15. It has been so wonderful being with Ethan and having the opportunity to soend all this time with him, and I am really going to miss him a lot. I can't believe I am actually going back - even though I knew it was coming I guess I am never quite ready. It has been an incredible adventure, a real learning experience, a fabulous holiday and another small step for me in creating a life for myself.
Lunch with Roxy
Well, the "roomies" are actually not too bad. We don't interact except to exchange hellos, but at least they and their gentlemen friends seem to disappear when I need to get to the bathroom to get ready for bed without having an audience, and they have been pretty quiet. Today it was a bit cooler and windier but still sunny in the morning. I waited for Roxy to pick me up at noon in front of McDonald's and she was right on time. We drove to Bronte Beach, which is just over from Coogee, and after parking we crossed the street to find a place to eat. We ended up at a little place called "swell" (it was!) and got a table just inside the restaurant but open to the outside. During a wonderful lunch of salad and wine we talked and talked and talked - about the trip, the other members of the group, ourselves... It was such a wonderful afternoon. As we chatted the sky slowly darkened and it got chillier and finally began to rain, so that when we finally left we had to walk across the road in the rain to get to the car. We were actually there talking until after 4pm and it just felt very comfortable. I think that we will be able to keep in touch even though she is always away somewhere. She also works for an Australian travel company and leads a Trans-Siberian tour for Aussies that sounds pretty interesting.
Back at Coogee I joined Ethan and his mates for the nightly Jeopardy viewing and then we went back to Five-O for yet another fabulous dinner. It may seem funny that we have been there so many times, but it is delicious, convenient and inexpensive - all the right stuff. Back to my itsy party pad to start a little packing so I wouldn't have to do it all at the last minute. It seemed to be double dates for the roomies tonight. It was pelting with rain all night and very windy - again, lovely to hear from inside my little cell, but I wonder how it will be tomorrow. We are hoping to go to the Blue Mountains and hopefully it won't be raining there.
Back at Coogee I joined Ethan and his mates for the nightly Jeopardy viewing and then we went back to Five-O for yet another fabulous dinner. It may seem funny that we have been there so many times, but it is delicious, convenient and inexpensive - all the right stuff. Back to my itsy party pad to start a little packing so I wouldn't have to do it all at the last minute. It seemed to be double dates for the roomies tonight. It was pelting with rain all night and very windy - again, lovely to hear from inside my little cell, but I wonder how it will be tomorrow. We are hoping to go to the Blue Mountains and hopefully it won't be raining there.
Free in Sydney
Online this morning at the hostel, as somehow I have been given 45 free minutes. I got to g-chat with Celia, which was definitely a highlight! I am having a wonderful time but of course I miss my kiddos. I was interested to hear Ethan's thoughts as well - early on in his adventure he said that he really loved Australia and was having a fabulous time. He wasn't homesick, but he said he really missed all of us and knew that Australia was just too far away. I do understand what he means.
It was not quite as sunny and warm today as had been predicted, but it was still a beautiful day, and nice enough for what was supposed to be winter. I went down to Coogee Beach and stepped into the water so that I could say I had put my toes in the Tasman Sea. I took the bus in to Hyde Park yet again and then went to Paddy's Market, only to discover that it is not open on Mondays, but there was a "Market City" shopping area right next to it so I walked around a bit. Then I went over to Elizabeth Street to see if I could get into the Great Synagogue, but no luck - it was also closed, but I managed to get a few photos of the outside through the gates. Then I walked down George Street to The Rocks, stopping in a few places along the way. I had lunch at Circular Quay and went to the Botannic Gardens, which I hadn't really had enough time to see the other day. The Gardens were absolutely stunningly beautiful, and seemed such a peaceful place to be. The way it is set up it makes you feel part of the landscape, and encourages you to participate and enjoy. It was very noisy from all the screeching birds, but the views were just wonderful. As always I thought of Dan and how much he would enjoy this - just his kind of perfect afternoon.
I returned to Coogee at around 6-ish and went to Macca's to check e-mail, in what has become a kind of routine for me. Roxy is going to pick me up tomorrow and we will have lunch together, and I am really looking forward to seeing her. While I was online Ethan g-chatted me and asked if I was at Macca's and when I asked if he was at home he said yes, that he was sitting on the front porch. I said I would be right over. So nice to be able to say that! We sat on the front porch together for a while and in the space of about an hour or so the fire alarm went off - they have been having trouble with it and unfortunately the kids have to get out every time it goes off and the fire brigade has to come. They were able to adjust the alarm so that the faulty bit wouldn't keep setting it off, so hopefully there won't be any more "outdoor meetings" tonight. We went to Five-O for a yummy dinner and then back to Ethan's for some marathon TV, accompanied by goon and fabulous dark chocolate Tim Tams - my new favourite! I left late and when I returned to my common area one of my "roomies" was entertaining a gentleman friend. They seemed to be playing a computer game and were nice enough when I came in, but I have to admit it was just a bit awkward.... Oh well, it is an Adventure.
It was not quite as sunny and warm today as had been predicted, but it was still a beautiful day, and nice enough for what was supposed to be winter. I went down to Coogee Beach and stepped into the water so that I could say I had put my toes in the Tasman Sea. I took the bus in to Hyde Park yet again and then went to Paddy's Market, only to discover that it is not open on Mondays, but there was a "Market City" shopping area right next to it so I walked around a bit. Then I went over to Elizabeth Street to see if I could get into the Great Synagogue, but no luck - it was also closed, but I managed to get a few photos of the outside through the gates. Then I walked down George Street to The Rocks, stopping in a few places along the way. I had lunch at Circular Quay and went to the Botannic Gardens, which I hadn't really had enough time to see the other day. The Gardens were absolutely stunningly beautiful, and seemed such a peaceful place to be. The way it is set up it makes you feel part of the landscape, and encourages you to participate and enjoy. It was very noisy from all the screeching birds, but the views were just wonderful. As always I thought of Dan and how much he would enjoy this - just his kind of perfect afternoon.
I returned to Coogee at around 6-ish and went to Macca's to check e-mail, in what has become a kind of routine for me. Roxy is going to pick me up tomorrow and we will have lunch together, and I am really looking forward to seeing her. While I was online Ethan g-chatted me and asked if I was at Macca's and when I asked if he was at home he said yes, that he was sitting on the front porch. I said I would be right over. So nice to be able to say that! We sat on the front porch together for a while and in the space of about an hour or so the fire alarm went off - they have been having trouble with it and unfortunately the kids have to get out every time it goes off and the fire brigade has to come. They were able to adjust the alarm so that the faulty bit wouldn't keep setting it off, so hopefully there won't be any more "outdoor meetings" tonight. We went to Five-O for a yummy dinner and then back to Ethan's for some marathon TV, accompanied by goon and fabulous dark chocolate Tim Tams - my new favourite! I left late and when I returned to my common area one of my "roomies" was entertaining a gentleman friend. They seemed to be playing a computer game and were nice enough when I came in, but I have to admit it was just a bit awkward.... Oh well, it is an Adventure.
Very Manly
Slept well again last night - I don't know what it is about the cell, but it seems to work. Had brekkie at the hostel and then over to Maccas for an e-mail check. See? I am beginning to embrace the Aussie vocabulary.
I got over to Ethan's around 11:30 and we hung out and talked about what we might do. He had some work to finish up and was tired after working late, and for a while it just looked like we were going to stay around Coogee and not do too much. Ethan had a flash about going to Manly Beach, which is a ferry ride from Sydney Harbour. Ethan had been there before and there is a lovely long walk around the Heritage Trail that can be as short or as long as you wish. It seemed like something nice for a shortened day and that we could do at our own pace. We hopped on the Coogee to Sydney bus - I am becoming a veteran! - and made it to Circular Quay in time to buy ferry tickets. It was a bit cloudier and not as warm as originally predicted, but the sun came out and the weather was fine for our trip and for the day. We saw some glorious views once again of the Harbour Bridge and the Opera House, with the city in the background - I never get tired of seeing them.
Manly has a nice beach but is also an interesting town with lots of shops and restaurants. In 1788 Capt. Arthur Phillip of the Royal Navy, looking to establish a colony in New South Wales, explored around Port Jackson. During the exploration the captain was impressed by the "confidence and manly behaviour" of a group of Aboriginals in the northern area of the harbour, and in that typically clever English way, Manly Beach received its name. Henry Gilbert Smith, an English businessman living in Sydney, realised the potential for this area and was responsible for helping to create the ferry service and pier, as well as the planting of many Norfolk pines along the harbour. He bought up land and encouraged the establishment of a village, and Manly became a popular destination for short trips.
We explored around the main streets for a while, including a little street market, and then we saw a burger restaurant with a menu that looked pretty good. It had apparently been voted one of the Top 10 restaurants for 2010 so we figured we had to try it. Ethan got a Lamblicious and I got a burger with grilled barramundi, and we agreed that the honour bestowed was well-deserved. For Ethan it ranked near the top of his Best Burger List, with Fernburger of New Zealand (where he apparently ate Bambi) at the top, followed by Bartley's in Cambridge, and then In and Out Burger and this one in a close tie.
We walked down by the beach and started out on the walk, stopping for beautiful views and photo opportunities. There were several different paths available, all seeming to eventually loop back to the start depending on how much time you wanted to spend. We had a lovely walk and somehow ended up for a time on a residential street, enjoying looking at the different houses built up high to overlook the water. We wended our way back to the trail and found a nice place to watch the sunset - the sun sets pretty quickly here, but it was really lovely while it lasted. We sat on a bench for a while until it got dark in order to take full advantage of an evening cruise back to Sydney. I know Dan was very close to us in our thoughts, and hopefully somewhere with us. We got back to the ferry in time for the 6:10 crossing. It was a bit breezy at first but soon the wind calmed down. We could see some stars and found the Southern Cross. We saw lots of gulls swooping and flying alongside the boat. The views were again breathtaking as we came within sight of the bridge and the city lights. Unfortunately my camera can't take pictures in the dark that do it any kind of justice, so the images will just have to remain in my head, but they are really quite amazing. We got off the ferry and somehow as soon as we got to the bus stop our bus to Coogee was there. When we got back we hung out at Ethan's with some of his roomies and Ethan and I again imbibed our favourite bevvie (goon!) as an aperitif to our dinner. Neither of us was very hungry, and by the time we started to think about eating something most places were closed, even though it was still fairly early. Ethan decided to cook himself some chicken and I said goodnight. I went back to the hostel and thought I might see what was happening there, but when I got to the reception/common area there were lots of "young'uns" watching a movie and I didn't really feel very comfortable - kind of stuck out like the proverbial sore thumb. I went to Macca's and had a cappuccino and when I got back the two girls from the other room were in my common area so after saying hello I went into my room but left the door open so I wouldn't feel so much like Crazy Grace Poole in the attic. I feel I have very little to say to these kids and I am sure they have even less to say to me, so I smile and they smile and that's that.
Ethan has class tomorrow so it is another free day for me, which probably means going into Sydney again to see my favourite places. I can't believe I am actually coming to the end of my stay, and as usual I am never really ready to go. I am so grateful that I was able to take this trip and see so much of this beautiful country. I would really love to see the plans Dan made for our trip but I am not sure where they are. I know it would have been just wonderful, as all our adventures together were. He would love the beautiful views and all the interesting places, and of course I would love more than anything to be with him.
I got over to Ethan's around 11:30 and we hung out and talked about what we might do. He had some work to finish up and was tired after working late, and for a while it just looked like we were going to stay around Coogee and not do too much. Ethan had a flash about going to Manly Beach, which is a ferry ride from Sydney Harbour. Ethan had been there before and there is a lovely long walk around the Heritage Trail that can be as short or as long as you wish. It seemed like something nice for a shortened day and that we could do at our own pace. We hopped on the Coogee to Sydney bus - I am becoming a veteran! - and made it to Circular Quay in time to buy ferry tickets. It was a bit cloudier and not as warm as originally predicted, but the sun came out and the weather was fine for our trip and for the day. We saw some glorious views once again of the Harbour Bridge and the Opera House, with the city in the background - I never get tired of seeing them.
Manly has a nice beach but is also an interesting town with lots of shops and restaurants. In 1788 Capt. Arthur Phillip of the Royal Navy, looking to establish a colony in New South Wales, explored around Port Jackson. During the exploration the captain was impressed by the "confidence and manly behaviour" of a group of Aboriginals in the northern area of the harbour, and in that typically clever English way, Manly Beach received its name. Henry Gilbert Smith, an English businessman living in Sydney, realised the potential for this area and was responsible for helping to create the ferry service and pier, as well as the planting of many Norfolk pines along the harbour. He bought up land and encouraged the establishment of a village, and Manly became a popular destination for short trips.
We explored around the main streets for a while, including a little street market, and then we saw a burger restaurant with a menu that looked pretty good. It had apparently been voted one of the Top 10 restaurants for 2010 so we figured we had to try it. Ethan got a Lamblicious and I got a burger with grilled barramundi, and we agreed that the honour bestowed was well-deserved. For Ethan it ranked near the top of his Best Burger List, with Fernburger of New Zealand (where he apparently ate Bambi) at the top, followed by Bartley's in Cambridge, and then In and Out Burger and this one in a close tie.
We walked down by the beach and started out on the walk, stopping for beautiful views and photo opportunities. There were several different paths available, all seeming to eventually loop back to the start depending on how much time you wanted to spend. We had a lovely walk and somehow ended up for a time on a residential street, enjoying looking at the different houses built up high to overlook the water. We wended our way back to the trail and found a nice place to watch the sunset - the sun sets pretty quickly here, but it was really lovely while it lasted. We sat on a bench for a while until it got dark in order to take full advantage of an evening cruise back to Sydney. I know Dan was very close to us in our thoughts, and hopefully somewhere with us. We got back to the ferry in time for the 6:10 crossing. It was a bit breezy at first but soon the wind calmed down. We could see some stars and found the Southern Cross. We saw lots of gulls swooping and flying alongside the boat. The views were again breathtaking as we came within sight of the bridge and the city lights. Unfortunately my camera can't take pictures in the dark that do it any kind of justice, so the images will just have to remain in my head, but they are really quite amazing. We got off the ferry and somehow as soon as we got to the bus stop our bus to Coogee was there. When we got back we hung out at Ethan's with some of his roomies and Ethan and I again imbibed our favourite bevvie (goon!) as an aperitif to our dinner. Neither of us was very hungry, and by the time we started to think about eating something most places were closed, even though it was still fairly early. Ethan decided to cook himself some chicken and I said goodnight. I went back to the hostel and thought I might see what was happening there, but when I got to the reception/common area there were lots of "young'uns" watching a movie and I didn't really feel very comfortable - kind of stuck out like the proverbial sore thumb. I went to Macca's and had a cappuccino and when I got back the two girls from the other room were in my common area so after saying hello I went into my room but left the door open so I wouldn't feel so much like Crazy Grace Poole in the attic. I feel I have very little to say to these kids and I am sure they have even less to say to me, so I smile and they smile and that's that.
Ethan has class tomorrow so it is another free day for me, which probably means going into Sydney again to see my favourite places. I can't believe I am actually coming to the end of my stay, and as usual I am never really ready to go. I am so grateful that I was able to take this trip and see so much of this beautiful country. I would really love to see the plans Dan made for our trip but I am not sure where they are. I know it would have been just wonderful, as all our adventures together were. He would love the beautiful views and all the interesting places, and of course I would love more than anything to be with him.
Monday, May 30, 2011
On the Beach and at the Palace
Much to my surprise I actually slept very well in my little cell at the hostel. I am also now opening the door like a pro - I don't think it has anything to do with anything I am actually doing at all. It just seems to work all of a sudden for some reason. My "roomies" came back at around 3-ish and I heard them a bit but it didn't really disturb me and I got back to sleep. I woke up again early in the morning but managed to go back to sleep again - a first for me on this trip. My little bunk bed is pretty comfortable and with all the pillows and duvets I have appropriated it seems to work.
I got up before the girls were awake so I could be assured of full use of the communal bathroom. After breakfast I took my laptop to McDonald's (Maccas) which is right next door and checked my mail. Then I went to reception and bought two bus tickets for Sydney and back. It was a lovely day and I really felt like going back to Sydney and enjoying my favourite places on such a beautiful day. I found that I was able to get around Sydney pretty well, at least the places I have been, and doing so much walking has helped me to be able to connect the places so I can find my way around. I went to Darling Harbour, past the Aquarium and Wildlife Centre to King Street and then to George Street. I wandered down to The Rocks, another place I very much enjoy. It is so rich with history and I like how they have managed to blend the old with the new. I crossed over to the wharf area and Circular Quay, which afforded me gorgeous views of the Harbour Bridge, a sight I could never grow tired of. As it was Saturday, there were loads of people everywhere, enjoying the weather and the scenery. I had some lunch outdoors and then walked around the Quay and the Opera House came into view - truly awe-inspiring and amazing. Even though I have taken so many photos of the bridge and opera house I find myself taking more because they are just so incredible. I walked around to the Botannic Gardens, where a sign welcomes you and tells you to walk on the grass. It is a lovely area that invites you to become part of it, and the views to the harbour were wonderful. I continued over to Government House to have a look and then decided I would get the bus back to Coogee from Circular Quay. That way I could return and grab more views.
I got back to Ethan's around 5 - he and some friends were on the balcony of the third floor so I came up. We went out and got some goon - really cheap wine (people of my generation, think Ripple or Thunderbird) - and had some on the front porch. Ethan and I took a walk up the main street of Coogee to check out all the restaurants. He was going to work that evening at The Palace, a large pub on the beach, but we needed to grab some dinner first. We ended up at a place right next to my hostel called Five-O - great food and good prices. Ethan went off to work and I went over later to hang out a bit. Coogee is a nice area and there are so many kids around in addition to everyone else that it is pretty safe. The Palace is huge with three floors. Some of the time Ethan works as a "glassie", bringing and clearing away glasses, but sometimes he does some bar tending. I have to admit it was an interesting experience to go to a bar alone and also to be amongst so may young people. There were a couple of themed parties going on but also many people just out for the evening. Ethan got me a Pure Blonde, his favourite beer, which I really liked, and I pretty much just sat and people-watched. Ethan has a couple of managers - one is pretty nice and one is a real jerk. I saw the jerk in action tonight and have to agree that Ethan's assessment was accurate.
I stayed at the pub until about 11:30 or so - it was about all I could take on my own. Ethan will most likely not be home before 3 and will want to sleep in tomorrow. We haven't yet decided what we will do tomorrow. I am trying not to think of the days dwindling down, especially as I know I have given myself this gift of these extra days with Ethan, and they are really precious. It is wonderful to be able to see where he lives, who his friends are, and what he does, so that I can imagine him here when I leave.
I got up before the girls were awake so I could be assured of full use of the communal bathroom. After breakfast I took my laptop to McDonald's (Maccas) which is right next door and checked my mail. Then I went to reception and bought two bus tickets for Sydney and back. It was a lovely day and I really felt like going back to Sydney and enjoying my favourite places on such a beautiful day. I found that I was able to get around Sydney pretty well, at least the places I have been, and doing so much walking has helped me to be able to connect the places so I can find my way around. I went to Darling Harbour, past the Aquarium and Wildlife Centre to King Street and then to George Street. I wandered down to The Rocks, another place I very much enjoy. It is so rich with history and I like how they have managed to blend the old with the new. I crossed over to the wharf area and Circular Quay, which afforded me gorgeous views of the Harbour Bridge, a sight I could never grow tired of. As it was Saturday, there were loads of people everywhere, enjoying the weather and the scenery. I had some lunch outdoors and then walked around the Quay and the Opera House came into view - truly awe-inspiring and amazing. Even though I have taken so many photos of the bridge and opera house I find myself taking more because they are just so incredible. I walked around to the Botannic Gardens, where a sign welcomes you and tells you to walk on the grass. It is a lovely area that invites you to become part of it, and the views to the harbour were wonderful. I continued over to Government House to have a look and then decided I would get the bus back to Coogee from Circular Quay. That way I could return and grab more views.
I got back to Ethan's around 5 - he and some friends were on the balcony of the third floor so I came up. We went out and got some goon - really cheap wine (people of my generation, think Ripple or Thunderbird) - and had some on the front porch. Ethan and I took a walk up the main street of Coogee to check out all the restaurants. He was going to work that evening at The Palace, a large pub on the beach, but we needed to grab some dinner first. We ended up at a place right next to my hostel called Five-O - great food and good prices. Ethan went off to work and I went over later to hang out a bit. Coogee is a nice area and there are so many kids around in addition to everyone else that it is pretty safe. The Palace is huge with three floors. Some of the time Ethan works as a "glassie", bringing and clearing away glasses, but sometimes he does some bar tending. I have to admit it was an interesting experience to go to a bar alone and also to be amongst so may young people. There were a couple of themed parties going on but also many people just out for the evening. Ethan got me a Pure Blonde, his favourite beer, which I really liked, and I pretty much just sat and people-watched. Ethan has a couple of managers - one is pretty nice and one is a real jerk. I saw the jerk in action tonight and have to agree that Ethan's assessment was accurate.
I stayed at the pub until about 11:30 or so - it was about all I could take on my own. Ethan will most likely not be home before 3 and will want to sleep in tomorrow. We haven't yet decided what we will do tomorrow. I am trying not to think of the days dwindling down, especially as I know I have given myself this gift of these extra days with Ethan, and they are really precious. It is wonderful to be able to see where he lives, who his friends are, and what he does, so that I can imagine him here when I leave.
Heading for Coogee!
I received my new suitcase last night. It turned out that they were unable to fix both suitcases, so Ed and I got two from a set. For some reason he got the larger one, so I am hoping I can fit everything into my "new" one. I got up early to have breakfast with people before they had to get on the coach for the airport. It was lovely talking with everyone - some are feeling sad about leaving but others are already focused on going home and resuming their routines. I am sure everyone wil be thinking about their next trip, especially as most of these people have traveled quite often. It has been a very good group to be with, and even though a couple have quirky personalities (as we all do!), we have really meshed and worked and played well together, and it is a bit sad to say goodbye after living together for such a long time. After talking to a few people I decided to take some good advice and get another small duffel so I won't have to worry about my suitcase being overstuffed.
Back in the lobby I hugged everyone and then got on the bus for a final goodbye. Just before I got onto the bus Roxy gave me a hug - we are making plans to have lunch sometime next week. I waved goodbye to the bus as it pulled off and then brought my things downstairs to store while I had a wander around. I walked to Paddy's Market, just at the edge of Chinatown. It is a huge covered area where you can find just about anything - T-shirts, jewelry, souvenirs, handbags, clothing, everything. There is also a whole section that has food, as well. I found a duffel and a few more bits, and headed back to the hotel to wait for Ethan. When he arrived we took my things and walked to Hyde Park to catch the bus to Coogee Beach. It is about a 30 minute bus ride and we passed the stadium and also Royal Randwick, the huge horseracing course. I could see that the area was pretty hilly, and can understand when Ethan says that his walk to UNSW is uphill for much of the way. We finally arrived in Coogee, which conveniently is the end of the bus line, and we walked across the street to Coogee Surfside Hostel where I checked in. There is a women's dorm that is basically a large common room with a bathroom, and there are two bunkbeds across from the bathroom. There are also two door leading to two other bedrooms, each with two bunkbeds as well. In my area the only place that was occupied was one of the bedrooms, and the other bedroom was my "private" room. I made good use of pillows and duvets from all the beds and managed to make it comfortable. It is definitely a different situation for me at this time in my life, but I think it will work just fine. The biggest problem for me initially was not being able to get the outside door open with my key - it is really temperamental and you have to keep twisting it until finally by some unexplainable miracle that doesn't seem to have anything to do with anything different you have been doing, the key magically turns and the door opens. The guy who runs the place said that everyone always thinks the keys don't work and that by the third day they don't have any problems. I would rather not wait until the third day... Ethan came with me when I went back and twice so far I have finally been able to open the door, so at least I am not imagining I will have to sleep outside. It is an Adventure, and as Ethan says, "You're only in Australia once".
Coogee looks like a nice place and the beach is beautiful. There are lots of young folks at the hostel so I am feeling just a smidge out of place, but Ethan is really sweet. He is so helpful and introduced me to his friends and it is just so nice to be with him and able to spend time together. His house is just down the block from me. I know he has school and work and also needs time with his mates, so I don't want him to feel he has to be with me every second.
After I got myself settled I went over to Ethan's and we got ready for our walk from Coogee to Bondi. It is about an hour walk with lots of up and downhill walking, but the path is paved so it is a good workout and tiring but not overly difficult. It was warm and sunny and we had a nice walk, pausing for photos of the views and sometimes to rest a bit. Parts of it reminded me a little of Cinque Terre with the up and down walking along the cliffsides. We were remembering that trip and how nice it was, and then we were remembering all the wonderful colleagues Dan had that made that trip so special for us. I felt sad to think that many of those connections will be lost.
At Bondi we watched the surfers a bit, but mostly we were starving and looking forward to having a delicious lunch at a place Ethan had been talking about called Sun Cafe. A friend had recommended it but Ethan hadn't been there yet. It seemed like it took forever to get there, and I am afraid I was just a teensy bit crabby, but in the end it was well worth it. We ate outside and it was just wonderful. When we finally got up we walked a little in the Jewish section (as it was after 4pm everything was closed for Shabbat). We went back to the main road and decided to take a taxi back to Coogee. We did our laundry and went shopping for some food for both of us. Ethan has a field trip tomorrow so he needed to have a lunch to take with him. We hung out at his house and watched some movies and then as I knew he needed to get up early for his field trip I left him at around 11:30.
Back at the hostel I found a couple of my "roomies" getting dressed up ready to go out. When I go into my room the door locks behind me, so it is a bit like being in a cell, but it feels private and hopefully will be quiet. It's an Adventure!
Back in the lobby I hugged everyone and then got on the bus for a final goodbye. Just before I got onto the bus Roxy gave me a hug - we are making plans to have lunch sometime next week. I waved goodbye to the bus as it pulled off and then brought my things downstairs to store while I had a wander around. I walked to Paddy's Market, just at the edge of Chinatown. It is a huge covered area where you can find just about anything - T-shirts, jewelry, souvenirs, handbags, clothing, everything. There is also a whole section that has food, as well. I found a duffel and a few more bits, and headed back to the hotel to wait for Ethan. When he arrived we took my things and walked to Hyde Park to catch the bus to Coogee Beach. It is about a 30 minute bus ride and we passed the stadium and also Royal Randwick, the huge horseracing course. I could see that the area was pretty hilly, and can understand when Ethan says that his walk to UNSW is uphill for much of the way. We finally arrived in Coogee, which conveniently is the end of the bus line, and we walked across the street to Coogee Surfside Hostel where I checked in. There is a women's dorm that is basically a large common room with a bathroom, and there are two bunkbeds across from the bathroom. There are also two door leading to two other bedrooms, each with two bunkbeds as well. In my area the only place that was occupied was one of the bedrooms, and the other bedroom was my "private" room. I made good use of pillows and duvets from all the beds and managed to make it comfortable. It is definitely a different situation for me at this time in my life, but I think it will work just fine. The biggest problem for me initially was not being able to get the outside door open with my key - it is really temperamental and you have to keep twisting it until finally by some unexplainable miracle that doesn't seem to have anything to do with anything different you have been doing, the key magically turns and the door opens. The guy who runs the place said that everyone always thinks the keys don't work and that by the third day they don't have any problems. I would rather not wait until the third day... Ethan came with me when I went back and twice so far I have finally been able to open the door, so at least I am not imagining I will have to sleep outside. It is an Adventure, and as Ethan says, "You're only in Australia once".
Coogee looks like a nice place and the beach is beautiful. There are lots of young folks at the hostel so I am feeling just a smidge out of place, but Ethan is really sweet. He is so helpful and introduced me to his friends and it is just so nice to be with him and able to spend time together. His house is just down the block from me. I know he has school and work and also needs time with his mates, so I don't want him to feel he has to be with me every second.
After I got myself settled I went over to Ethan's and we got ready for our walk from Coogee to Bondi. It is about an hour walk with lots of up and downhill walking, but the path is paved so it is a good workout and tiring but not overly difficult. It was warm and sunny and we had a nice walk, pausing for photos of the views and sometimes to rest a bit. Parts of it reminded me a little of Cinque Terre with the up and down walking along the cliffsides. We were remembering that trip and how nice it was, and then we were remembering all the wonderful colleagues Dan had that made that trip so special for us. I felt sad to think that many of those connections will be lost.
At Bondi we watched the surfers a bit, but mostly we were starving and looking forward to having a delicious lunch at a place Ethan had been talking about called Sun Cafe. A friend had recommended it but Ethan hadn't been there yet. It seemed like it took forever to get there, and I am afraid I was just a teensy bit crabby, but in the end it was well worth it. We ate outside and it was just wonderful. When we finally got up we walked a little in the Jewish section (as it was after 4pm everything was closed for Shabbat). We went back to the main road and decided to take a taxi back to Coogee. We did our laundry and went shopping for some food for both of us. Ethan has a field trip tomorrow so he needed to have a lunch to take with him. We hung out at his house and watched some movies and then as I knew he needed to get up early for his field trip I left him at around 11:30.
Back at the hostel I found a couple of my "roomies" getting dressed up ready to go out. When I go into my room the door locks behind me, so it is a bit like being in a cell, but it feels private and hopefully will be quiet. It's an Adventure!
Sowing last OATs in Sydney
Today was a free day in Sydney, as it is the last day of the OAT trip. I slept in just a wee bit and came down for breakfast in time to see several others including Roxy, who told me where I could find a new battery for my camera and also that my new suitcase would be arriving sometime that day. After breakfast I went and bought the battery, so hopefully I will be back to full power for the rest of my trip. Ethan arrived just before noon and we got going. It was a beautiful day - very sunny and warm, and I was reminded how lucky we have been with our weather. Despite it being the beginning of winter we have had sunny days and lovely temperatures. We walked to Hyde Park and went into the Shrine of Remembrance to have a quick look at the beautiful statues. Then we walked down through The Domain and past the Art Gallery, where, as Roxy helpfully pointed out a couple of days ago, the Aussies decided to give a famous Italian artist a first and last name when they decorated the building with the names of famous artists. Yes, if you go to the Sydney Art Gallery and look at the top of the outside of the building, you will see the name of Michael Angelo. HAD to have a photo of that.
We went on to Mrs. Macquarie's chair where we found a man who takes photos of you with the bridge and Opera House and of course we had to do that. He was kind enough to take a few more photos with our camera as well. We walked around through the Botannic Gardens to the Circular Quay and got some delicious gelati for "lunch" - YUMMMMMMMMMM. Then it was on to The Rocks and up Argyle Street to the steps leading to the Harbour Bridge. We walked across the bridge stopping to take photos, and we kept reminding each other where we were. When we reached the other side we walked down to the water and sat on a railing looking out at the harbour. Then we walked over to Luna Park, the amusement park, to have a look, and finally back to the bridge and back across. We then went to Darling Harbour to Wagamama (!) where we were delighted to find that they had T-shirts. They must have thought we were crazy because they don't advertise the shirts for sale and we were so excited about them. In fact, they had one there for Ethan, but none in my size, so we had to walk to a different Wagamama for a shirt for me. Crazy, but we have such lovely Waggs memories from the UK and also a visit to Amsterdam, so well worth all the walking. On the way back to the hotel we found a cupcake place so of course we bought one to share. On Elizabeth Street near Hyde Park we came across the Great Synagogue but unfortunately it was closed.
After saying goodbye to Ethan I changed into my farewell dinner clothes and we all assembled in the lobby and then onto the coach for a trip to The Rocks and our venue for the dinner. The Hero of Waterloo Pub has been on this site for a very long time, and we had a private room upstairs with one long table. The dinner was courtesy of OAT and was delicious, complete with red and white wine. I realised how nice it has been to get to know all these people who have been such a part of my life and have shared these adventures for so long. It is sad to say goodbye but I am very glad I don't have to leave just yet. We took some photos and wrote down our e-mail addresses for Roxy to copy back at the hotel and hand out. We toasted each other and the wonderful trip and Roxy for everything she did to help make it so special. Then we went around the table and each of us shared our favourite part(s) of the trip. Back at the hotel I said goodbye to Marcia, who will be leaving early in the morning for her trip to Perth. It was a lovely day with Ethan in Sydney, and a wonderful ending for the OATers.
We went on to Mrs. Macquarie's chair where we found a man who takes photos of you with the bridge and Opera House and of course we had to do that. He was kind enough to take a few more photos with our camera as well. We walked around through the Botannic Gardens to the Circular Quay and got some delicious gelati for "lunch" - YUMMMMMMMMMM. Then it was on to The Rocks and up Argyle Street to the steps leading to the Harbour Bridge. We walked across the bridge stopping to take photos, and we kept reminding each other where we were. When we reached the other side we walked down to the water and sat on a railing looking out at the harbour. Then we walked over to Luna Park, the amusement park, to have a look, and finally back to the bridge and back across. We then went to Darling Harbour to Wagamama (!) where we were delighted to find that they had T-shirts. They must have thought we were crazy because they don't advertise the shirts for sale and we were so excited about them. In fact, they had one there for Ethan, but none in my size, so we had to walk to a different Wagamama for a shirt for me. Crazy, but we have such lovely Waggs memories from the UK and also a visit to Amsterdam, so well worth all the walking. On the way back to the hotel we found a cupcake place so of course we bought one to share. On Elizabeth Street near Hyde Park we came across the Great Synagogue but unfortunately it was closed.
After saying goodbye to Ethan I changed into my farewell dinner clothes and we all assembled in the lobby and then onto the coach for a trip to The Rocks and our venue for the dinner. The Hero of Waterloo Pub has been on this site for a very long time, and we had a private room upstairs with one long table. The dinner was courtesy of OAT and was delicious, complete with red and white wine. I realised how nice it has been to get to know all these people who have been such a part of my life and have shared these adventures for so long. It is sad to say goodbye but I am very glad I don't have to leave just yet. We took some photos and wrote down our e-mail addresses for Roxy to copy back at the hotel and hand out. We toasted each other and the wonderful trip and Roxy for everything she did to help make it so special. Then we went around the table and each of us shared our favourite part(s) of the trip. Back at the hotel I said goodbye to Marcia, who will be leaving early in the morning for her trip to Perth. It was a lovely day with Ethan in Sydney, and a wonderful ending for the OATers.
Exploring Sydney, Part II, or The Opera Isn't Over Until....
We went to The Rocks and took a short walk with Roxy to see The Nurse's Walk and some of the old, interesting sandstone buildings and alleyways. Although there are now many shops and restaurants there, they have managed to preserve the history and feel of the original area, making it a special place to visit. The Suez Canal is an alleyway previously used for tossing sewage and waste, and today points the way to the toilets. We also saw Argyle Street, where you can find the stairway that goes up to the walk across Harbour Bridge. We had some free time to explore the are and have some lunch before meeting up at 2:15 for our Captain Cook Coffee Cruise around the Harbour. The cruise was leaving from the Circular Quay, a main area of Sydney for transportation. There is a lovely park there as well. At the quay there were some Aboriginals playing the didgeridoo and other instruments - after our trip to the Outback I wasn't quite sure what to think about these performers, except that I hoped they were making lots of money from the tourists. As I approached where our wharf there was a man dressed as Captain Cook who was talking with people in an effort, I suppose, to drum up business. He and I chatted for a little while about where he lived and how long he had been doing this job. It was a gorgeous day and the long cruise turned out to be just wonderful - a perfect way to see the harbour with spectacular views. Unfortunately my camera punked out again and as I had been charging it every night I had a feeling it was my battery finally pooping out. In a way it was nice not to be taking photos every minute and being able to really stop, enjoy and focus on what you are seeing. I also know it isn't always going to be possible for me to remember this as it really was, so it is nice to have the photos too. I knew Dan would just love the scenery and the fabulous weather, so I hope he was there with me. We were also given one cup of coffee/tea and a little packet of two cookies, just so we wouldn't go hungry for two seconds.
After the cruise walked over to the Opera House for our private tour. James, who is a tour guide and an usher (so in addition to doing our tour he had to usher that evening) gave each of us a headset so that we could all hear him as we went. It was very ingenious, and he was even able to find a special headset for Marcia who has cochlear implants, so that she was able to hear as well. We went down to the area where they drive in the trucks and load scenery, props, and instruments onto special lifts that take them directly to the hall to which they are going - the lift becomes part of the floor of that stage. Horses have even been loaded and brought up to the stages. There are five halls/perofrmance spaces: Studio (smallest and newest), Playhouse, Drama, Opera Theatre and Concert Hall. The opera and dance companies alternate parts of the seasons with Melbourne, so when a dance company is in Melbourne the opera is in Sydney. The Concert Hall holds just under 2700 people and Vladamir Ashkenazy is the conductor. We weren't supposed to take photos in the halls, but if there was no scenery onstage or anyone working there James said we could.
The story of the Opera House is very interesting. There was a competition held in 1957 for designs and many were submitted. Most were traditional square shapes with a few circular and some side-by-side halls. The design that we now know was submitted but was actually one that had been rejected. Luckily there was a judge who arrived late and asked to see all the submissions, and as soon as he saw that one he announced they had their winner. The sketch, by a Danish architect named Jorn Utson, was very rough, with no detail or explanations of how this was to be built or even if it would work, but it was so revolutionary and so beautiful that they decided to go ahead. The construction site was at the end of the Bennelong Point, a little peninsula, which originally was the site of Fort Macquarie and then was the train sheds, before finally becoming the home of the Sydney Opera. Construction was anticipated to take 2 years and cost around 7 million dollars, but of course it took much longer and cost much more. They actually started laying the foundation before they knew how to create the curved bits that held the building together. This created quite a problem for some time until the architect applied a simple mathematical solution based on a sphere, and then it became much simpler to do because they only needed to create a couple of forms upon which everything was based. At one point during the construction a new premier was elected who felt the project was costing too much and taking too long, so he proposed having the government take it over rather than let the architect have sole discretion and permission. Utson felt this was improper and he couldn't accept the proposal so he resigned and returned to Denmark, never actually seeing his finished work in person. Some time later he was invited to help with another project here but at the advanced age of 81 was unable to make the trip. His son came instead and did the work. The tour was really interesting and very well done, and we ended up taking more time than originally planned because of our questions and interest.
We went back to the hotel by coach and Roxy pointed out some places we could get dinner on our own. Ethan called and he and his friend Dan Keche came over. The boys had gone to Logan together when they left for Australia, and Dan's parents had kindly driven me to and from along with the boys so I could also see Ethan off. We went to a great Malaysian restaurant called Mamek, where there is consistently a line out the door. When we arrived at around 8pm the line wasn't too long and we were able to get a fabulous dinner of fish curry, chicken curry, Malaysian fried chicken and different kinds of roti, delicious Malaysian bread. It was a great meal and fun to be with the boys. After dinner we walked to Darling Harbour and into the Queen Victoria building, then around town a bit and through the World Market shopping mall near the hotel. They came and hung out at the hotel a bit and then went to catch the bus back to Coogee. There has been a full moon for the past couple of days, which has been very beautiful. Ethan and I arranged that he would come back the next day so we could spend the day together, as it is a free day for our group. As tomorrow will be the last day of the OAT tour, we will be having a farewell dinner together. I can't believe that we have really come to the end of the trip and am very excited taht I will be able to stay for several more days, though I know they will go by far too quickly. Already Ethan and I are talking about doing so many things that we will probably not have the time to do. But we can try....
After the cruise walked over to the Opera House for our private tour. James, who is a tour guide and an usher (so in addition to doing our tour he had to usher that evening) gave each of us a headset so that we could all hear him as we went. It was very ingenious, and he was even able to find a special headset for Marcia who has cochlear implants, so that she was able to hear as well. We went down to the area where they drive in the trucks and load scenery, props, and instruments onto special lifts that take them directly to the hall to which they are going - the lift becomes part of the floor of that stage. Horses have even been loaded and brought up to the stages. There are five halls/perofrmance spaces: Studio (smallest and newest), Playhouse, Drama, Opera Theatre and Concert Hall. The opera and dance companies alternate parts of the seasons with Melbourne, so when a dance company is in Melbourne the opera is in Sydney. The Concert Hall holds just under 2700 people and Vladamir Ashkenazy is the conductor. We weren't supposed to take photos in the halls, but if there was no scenery onstage or anyone working there James said we could.
The story of the Opera House is very interesting. There was a competition held in 1957 for designs and many were submitted. Most were traditional square shapes with a few circular and some side-by-side halls. The design that we now know was submitted but was actually one that had been rejected. Luckily there was a judge who arrived late and asked to see all the submissions, and as soon as he saw that one he announced they had their winner. The sketch, by a Danish architect named Jorn Utson, was very rough, with no detail or explanations of how this was to be built or even if it would work, but it was so revolutionary and so beautiful that they decided to go ahead. The construction site was at the end of the Bennelong Point, a little peninsula, which originally was the site of Fort Macquarie and then was the train sheds, before finally becoming the home of the Sydney Opera. Construction was anticipated to take 2 years and cost around 7 million dollars, but of course it took much longer and cost much more. They actually started laying the foundation before they knew how to create the curved bits that held the building together. This created quite a problem for some time until the architect applied a simple mathematical solution based on a sphere, and then it became much simpler to do because they only needed to create a couple of forms upon which everything was based. At one point during the construction a new premier was elected who felt the project was costing too much and taking too long, so he proposed having the government take it over rather than let the architect have sole discretion and permission. Utson felt this was improper and he couldn't accept the proposal so he resigned and returned to Denmark, never actually seeing his finished work in person. Some time later he was invited to help with another project here but at the advanced age of 81 was unable to make the trip. His son came instead and did the work. The tour was really interesting and very well done, and we ended up taking more time than originally planned because of our questions and interest.
We went back to the hotel by coach and Roxy pointed out some places we could get dinner on our own. Ethan called and he and his friend Dan Keche came over. The boys had gone to Logan together when they left for Australia, and Dan's parents had kindly driven me to and from along with the boys so I could also see Ethan off. We went to a great Malaysian restaurant called Mamek, where there is consistently a line out the door. When we arrived at around 8pm the line wasn't too long and we were able to get a fabulous dinner of fish curry, chicken curry, Malaysian fried chicken and different kinds of roti, delicious Malaysian bread. It was a great meal and fun to be with the boys. After dinner we walked to Darling Harbour and into the Queen Victoria building, then around town a bit and through the World Market shopping mall near the hotel. They came and hung out at the hotel a bit and then went to catch the bus back to Coogee. There has been a full moon for the past couple of days, which has been very beautiful. Ethan and I arranged that he would come back the next day so we could spend the day together, as it is a free day for our group. As tomorrow will be the last day of the OAT tour, we will be having a farewell dinner together. I can't believe that we have really come to the end of the trip and am very excited taht I will be able to stay for several more days, though I know they will go by far too quickly. Already Ethan and I are talking about doing so many things that we will probably not have the time to do. But we can try....
Exploring Sydney, Part I
Our new Aussie expression today came courtesy of Roxie, who was sharing a story with us about a past boyfriend. To "give someone the flick" means to dump them. Thanks, Roxie!
Breakfast at the hotel included a very interesting pancake machine - you press a button and wait, and soon our rolls a perfect pancake. Very cool. There was also a nice big coffee machine that dispensed "responsible"coffee, and also expresso, hot chocolate and mocha. I guess that all really impressed me after being in the rainforest. I brought down my suitcase (goodbye!) and Roxy copied my baggage tags and forms. I'm not sure when I will get my new suitcase, and as there are no real shelves or drawers in the room, my stuff is very creatively and artfully arranged all about.
We got into our small coach for a ride around Sydney, though the driver was often going too fast to see things properly and Roxy had to keep asking him to go slower. We saw many of the places Ethan and I saw last night on our walk and then drove towards the wharves. We saw Cockle Wharf and the area called The Rocks that features old sandstone buildings. In the "old days" it was a rough area where crime was rampant, and in the 1820s there was an outbreak of bubonic plague that caused the area to be quarantined. Downward sloping ledges were built onto the sandstone walls to try to prevent the rats from getting up. We saw old home in Sgt. Major's Row, including John Cadman's cottage, Australia's oldest surviving house within the city of Sydney. Cadman was sent to Australia for stealing a horse, and was later pardoned by Gov. Lachlan Macquarie (an early and important governor, for whom many places are named - more about him later!) because of his service to the government. Convicts were sent to Australia around the time of the American Revolution because the thirteen colonies were no longer a viable place to send them. They generally received sentences in multiples of seven. In The Rocks there was a hospital section and road called the Nurse's Walk. In the beginning the hospital was pretty primitive, consisting of canvas tents, and the "nurses" were convict women who looked after the patients. In time nurses came from Britain, and there is a monument to these brave women who came so far and made such a difference here. We saw Esssex street, the site of the first hangings, and Martin Plaza, where the first war recruiting service was located and the site of the ANZAC Remembrance area where the wreath is laid each year. This is also where the first General Post Office was built. We saw the beautiful Queen Victoria building, or QVB as it is affectionately known. It is a grand and lovely huge building of upscale shops that was originally built to honour the British monarch, and there is a large statue of the queen outside the building. Through the years it has held many different kinds of shops, and in the "austere" 1930s it underwent drastic remodeling and its main tenant was the Sydney City Council. As recently as 1959 it was threatened with demolition, but fortunately it was saved and restored to its original beauty. Other points of interest were the Town Hall and St. Andrew's Cathedral and school. Hyde Park, named of course for the one in London, held tunnels beneath for an escape route during the Second World War and was the site of the first cricket ground here. There is also the beautiful Shrine of Remembrance with its monuments to fallen soldiers and veterans. We started our ascent into the hills above Sydney and drove through the gay and lesbian area, where there are lots of good restaurants and athe area is becoming more upmarket. Every February they have a huge gay and lesbian Mardi Gras and thousands of people come to celebrate (Ethan and friends went this year and pronounced it fabulous). We saw Victoria Barracks, built in the 1840s, and continued through the fashionable areas of Paddington and Woollahra, past Centennial Park and through the Jewish area. Hungarian Jews arrived in Australia after WWII and bought quite a lot of land; they were later joined by Russian Jews. Bondi Junction Shopping Centre used to be called The Teagarden - women would get dressed up and go there to drink tea and be fashionable. Bondi Junction was at the end of the train line and was traditionally a working class beach. The Bondi Road Tram used to hurtle down here and known as the Bondi Rattler. "Bondi" is Aboriginal for "sound of water breaking". In 1904 the first surf life-saving centre was built here. We made a stop at Bondi Beach to look around, and Roxy pointed out the walk along the cliff that goes to Coogee which I have a feeling I may get to experience. Dover Heights was a fruit and vegetable growing area and site of markets in older times. At Dudley Page we stopped for a photo op across to the Harbour. Land at Dudley Page is very valuable, and we saw houses that were valued at many millions that were not as lovely as you might imagine. Sydney Harbour is the largest and deepest harbour in the world, and contains 70 inlets, and Rose Bay, which we saw, is just one and the site of the old airport. The Harbour Bridge was finished in 1932. There is a lighthouse in the harbour built by Francis Greenway, who was an architect and then a convict. He did quite a lot of work for Gov. Macquarie and was eventually pardoned. Greenway is responsible for many famous buildings in Sydney, and the narrowest alleyway in Sydney, located in The Rocks, is names for him.
We took a walk along the cliff at Watson's Bay and saw the Watson's Bay Gap site, famous for suicides. In the 1870s this area was the site of a ship disaster - the captain of the Dunbar mistook the gap for the entrance to the harbour, and when we looked down at the site it is easy to see how he made that mistake. All but one soul perished, and we saw the anchor and a memorial tablet for the Dunbar that are on display there. The weather was sunny and lovely - a beautiful day.
We went through the suburb of Vaucluse and had a glimpse of Vaucluse House, built by an aristocratic convict. The route our coach took us in this area is the site of the Sydney to Surf Race each year, and contains a steep hill known as Heartbreak Hill (we have one that is part of the Boston Marathon too!). The are of Double Bay was originally called Seven Shillings Bay for the price which was paid for it, in one of those early "deals". Now people say, "Double Bay, Double Pay". We saw the church in which Elton John got married before he decided he was, in fact, gay, and we saw where Russell Crowe and Nicole Kidman have their homes when they are at home.
We continued past Darling Point and Rush Cutter's Bay, where convicts were sent to cut rushes for floors and bedding for settlers. King's Cross is the red light district in the area and the highest point in the colony (no pun intended!). Many soldiers came here during the war. It has been known also as a place of much illegal drug activity, and a programme has been instituted in which safe areas have been provided for shooting up, including clean needles and needle exchanges, but no drugs are provided! It seems to be working fairly well. Pott's Point was named for Henry Potts, who worked for a bank and rose to a high position. He then fell in love with a young woman and desired to marry; however, the rules for a man in his position stated that if he started as a bachelor at the bank, he had to remain one to retain his position. So he "gave her the flick", bought some land and named it for himself. At Woolamaloo we saw Harry's Cafe de Wheels, a food wagon that has been operating since the 1940s and apparently sells wonderful meat pies. Harry's establishment was not allowed to be permanently fixed, so his solution was to put it on wheels and move it slightly from time to time, and there it has stayed.
We passed HMS Cutter and the Naval Yard, noting the flying red kangaroos which mark the Australia ships. We saw St. Mary's Cathedral and the area known as The Domain. This was originally set aside for the wealthy but Gov. Macquarie insisted the common people should be also be able to use the land. It is a huge park and today there are lots of celebrations there, including opera, symphony and concerts in the park. People bring picnics, and in typical Aussie style many men wear tuxedo tops and shorts. Driving around the inlets we saw the Botannic Gardens and we got out for a little walk to Macquarie Point and Mrs. Macquarie's Chair. The governor's wife was said to enjoy going out and would sit for hours, looking "longingly at the sea", so there is a place carved in the rock suitable for sitting and it is a lovely spot from which to photograph the Harbour Bridge and Opera House. We saw the little island in the harbour known as Fort Denison, and also Hyde Park Barracks, finally built by (you guessed it!) Governor Macquarie in desperation to house the unruly convicts from The Rocks from sunset to sunrise. At sunrise they would be let out to go to work building roads, bridges, etc. We saw the Old Mint, Parliament, and the Mitchell Library, outside of which is a statue of Matthew Flinders who sailed around Australia with his cat as his loyal companion. Behind the statue if you look carefully in one of the windows is a little statue of a cat. The old Treasure is now the Intercontinental Hotel, where they have kept the facade and you can still see the original cages and some of the original furnishings.
There was so much to see and much more to come, so I will continue in the next post......
Breakfast at the hotel included a very interesting pancake machine - you press a button and wait, and soon our rolls a perfect pancake. Very cool. There was also a nice big coffee machine that dispensed "responsible"coffee, and also expresso, hot chocolate and mocha. I guess that all really impressed me after being in the rainforest. I brought down my suitcase (goodbye!) and Roxy copied my baggage tags and forms. I'm not sure when I will get my new suitcase, and as there are no real shelves or drawers in the room, my stuff is very creatively and artfully arranged all about.
We got into our small coach for a ride around Sydney, though the driver was often going too fast to see things properly and Roxy had to keep asking him to go slower. We saw many of the places Ethan and I saw last night on our walk and then drove towards the wharves. We saw Cockle Wharf and the area called The Rocks that features old sandstone buildings. In the "old days" it was a rough area where crime was rampant, and in the 1820s there was an outbreak of bubonic plague that caused the area to be quarantined. Downward sloping ledges were built onto the sandstone walls to try to prevent the rats from getting up. We saw old home in Sgt. Major's Row, including John Cadman's cottage, Australia's oldest surviving house within the city of Sydney. Cadman was sent to Australia for stealing a horse, and was later pardoned by Gov. Lachlan Macquarie (an early and important governor, for whom many places are named - more about him later!) because of his service to the government. Convicts were sent to Australia around the time of the American Revolution because the thirteen colonies were no longer a viable place to send them. They generally received sentences in multiples of seven. In The Rocks there was a hospital section and road called the Nurse's Walk. In the beginning the hospital was pretty primitive, consisting of canvas tents, and the "nurses" were convict women who looked after the patients. In time nurses came from Britain, and there is a monument to these brave women who came so far and made such a difference here. We saw Esssex street, the site of the first hangings, and Martin Plaza, where the first war recruiting service was located and the site of the ANZAC Remembrance area where the wreath is laid each year. This is also where the first General Post Office was built. We saw the beautiful Queen Victoria building, or QVB as it is affectionately known. It is a grand and lovely huge building of upscale shops that was originally built to honour the British monarch, and there is a large statue of the queen outside the building. Through the years it has held many different kinds of shops, and in the "austere" 1930s it underwent drastic remodeling and its main tenant was the Sydney City Council. As recently as 1959 it was threatened with demolition, but fortunately it was saved and restored to its original beauty. Other points of interest were the Town Hall and St. Andrew's Cathedral and school. Hyde Park, named of course for the one in London, held tunnels beneath for an escape route during the Second World War and was the site of the first cricket ground here. There is also the beautiful Shrine of Remembrance with its monuments to fallen soldiers and veterans. We started our ascent into the hills above Sydney and drove through the gay and lesbian area, where there are lots of good restaurants and athe area is becoming more upmarket. Every February they have a huge gay and lesbian Mardi Gras and thousands of people come to celebrate (Ethan and friends went this year and pronounced it fabulous). We saw Victoria Barracks, built in the 1840s, and continued through the fashionable areas of Paddington and Woollahra, past Centennial Park and through the Jewish area. Hungarian Jews arrived in Australia after WWII and bought quite a lot of land; they were later joined by Russian Jews. Bondi Junction Shopping Centre used to be called The Teagarden - women would get dressed up and go there to drink tea and be fashionable. Bondi Junction was at the end of the train line and was traditionally a working class beach. The Bondi Road Tram used to hurtle down here and known as the Bondi Rattler. "Bondi" is Aboriginal for "sound of water breaking". In 1904 the first surf life-saving centre was built here. We made a stop at Bondi Beach to look around, and Roxy pointed out the walk along the cliff that goes to Coogee which I have a feeling I may get to experience. Dover Heights was a fruit and vegetable growing area and site of markets in older times. At Dudley Page we stopped for a photo op across to the Harbour. Land at Dudley Page is very valuable, and we saw houses that were valued at many millions that were not as lovely as you might imagine. Sydney Harbour is the largest and deepest harbour in the world, and contains 70 inlets, and Rose Bay, which we saw, is just one and the site of the old airport. The Harbour Bridge was finished in 1932. There is a lighthouse in the harbour built by Francis Greenway, who was an architect and then a convict. He did quite a lot of work for Gov. Macquarie and was eventually pardoned. Greenway is responsible for many famous buildings in Sydney, and the narrowest alleyway in Sydney, located in The Rocks, is names for him.
We took a walk along the cliff at Watson's Bay and saw the Watson's Bay Gap site, famous for suicides. In the 1870s this area was the site of a ship disaster - the captain of the Dunbar mistook the gap for the entrance to the harbour, and when we looked down at the site it is easy to see how he made that mistake. All but one soul perished, and we saw the anchor and a memorial tablet for the Dunbar that are on display there. The weather was sunny and lovely - a beautiful day.
We went through the suburb of Vaucluse and had a glimpse of Vaucluse House, built by an aristocratic convict. The route our coach took us in this area is the site of the Sydney to Surf Race each year, and contains a steep hill known as Heartbreak Hill (we have one that is part of the Boston Marathon too!). The are of Double Bay was originally called Seven Shillings Bay for the price which was paid for it, in one of those early "deals". Now people say, "Double Bay, Double Pay". We saw the church in which Elton John got married before he decided he was, in fact, gay, and we saw where Russell Crowe and Nicole Kidman have their homes when they are at home.
We continued past Darling Point and Rush Cutter's Bay, where convicts were sent to cut rushes for floors and bedding for settlers. King's Cross is the red light district in the area and the highest point in the colony (no pun intended!). Many soldiers came here during the war. It has been known also as a place of much illegal drug activity, and a programme has been instituted in which safe areas have been provided for shooting up, including clean needles and needle exchanges, but no drugs are provided! It seems to be working fairly well. Pott's Point was named for Henry Potts, who worked for a bank and rose to a high position. He then fell in love with a young woman and desired to marry; however, the rules for a man in his position stated that if he started as a bachelor at the bank, he had to remain one to retain his position. So he "gave her the flick", bought some land and named it for himself. At Woolamaloo we saw Harry's Cafe de Wheels, a food wagon that has been operating since the 1940s and apparently sells wonderful meat pies. Harry's establishment was not allowed to be permanently fixed, so his solution was to put it on wheels and move it slightly from time to time, and there it has stayed.
We passed HMS Cutter and the Naval Yard, noting the flying red kangaroos which mark the Australia ships. We saw St. Mary's Cathedral and the area known as The Domain. This was originally set aside for the wealthy but Gov. Macquarie insisted the common people should be also be able to use the land. It is a huge park and today there are lots of celebrations there, including opera, symphony and concerts in the park. People bring picnics, and in typical Aussie style many men wear tuxedo tops and shorts. Driving around the inlets we saw the Botannic Gardens and we got out for a little walk to Macquarie Point and Mrs. Macquarie's Chair. The governor's wife was said to enjoy going out and would sit for hours, looking "longingly at the sea", so there is a place carved in the rock suitable for sitting and it is a lovely spot from which to photograph the Harbour Bridge and Opera House. We saw the little island in the harbour known as Fort Denison, and also Hyde Park Barracks, finally built by (you guessed it!) Governor Macquarie in desperation to house the unruly convicts from The Rocks from sunset to sunrise. At sunrise they would be let out to go to work building roads, bridges, etc. We saw the Old Mint, Parliament, and the Mitchell Library, outside of which is a statue of Matthew Flinders who sailed around Australia with his cat as his loyal companion. Behind the statue if you look carefully in one of the windows is a little statue of a cat. The old Treasure is now the Intercontinental Hotel, where they have kept the facade and you can still see the original cages and some of the original furnishings.
There was so much to see and much more to come, so I will continue in the next post......
Sydney At Last
The rain and wind continued throughout the night and it turned out to be quite the storm. Thankfully it pretty much ended by breakfast time but it was lovely to hear it, even when it was chucking down and so loud in the middle of the night. After breakfast our small coach with the attached carrier for the luggage arrived and we were off to Cairns, heading back in the direction from which we had come. We had a loo stop in Mossman and drove through the cane fields again. It started to rain just a bit and the sun came out so of course I looked for a rainbow and found a wonderful double rainbow out the right hand side of the bus. The lower one was very vivid and colourful and was very low to the ground, and the higher one was not as easy to see, but still there. We crossed back over on the cable ferry without sighting any crocs, and as we drove down the road past the cassawary signs we looked for these elusive birds, but didn't see any. Now everyone is accusing Roxy of making them up and placing the signs artfully around the area. Her response is that the cassawaries must be on holiday. We arrived at the Cairns airport two hours early. It is a new airport, about 18 months old, and we enjoyed walking around looking in all the shops and then reading and relaxing until our 1:10pm plane to Sydney.
The plane was pretty big and although it was nearly full I ended up sitting in the centre three seats with Linda and no one in the centre of our row, so that was a nice treat. The flight was on time and we got into Sydney a little after 4pm. Unfortunately when we received our suitcases, mine and another person's had been damaged, so we were off to Baggage Services. Initially they wanted me to empty my suitcase and leave it there, but there was no way I was going to do that, so we arranged to have them pick the suitcases up from the hotel the next morning. Apparently mine cannot be repaired and will have to be replaced. It will be interesting to see if the replacement will hold all my things!
We rode to the hotel in a large coach that is used to transport an Australian rugby team. There are two seats up in the front that have red stripes on them; they are for the coaches of the team. We got to the hotel and I was hauling my bags in through the front door and looked to my left and there was Ethan, sitting on the couch!!!!! I must have screamed or squealed or made some kind of exclamation, and dropped everything right there and ran to him -- it was so so so good to see him! He looked great and I couldn't believe I was actually there and we were in the same place! I introduced him to everyone, still a little shaky - of course they all guessed who he was as they knew I was looking forward to seeing him in Sydney. He came with us on a little walk around Sydney. The hotel is not far from Hyde Park and Chinatown, and Roxy showed us a couple of areas for restaurants and a little shopping. I think many people were a little tired from the long day, but Ethan and I walked around and had a fabulous dinner at Darling Harbour at The Meat and Wine Co. Our food was presented in a really beautiful and unusual way and everything was delicious, and of course Ethan was thrilled, as it was the first opportunity for him to go to a very nice restaurant and have a wonderful meal. It felt so good to be together.
After dinner we walked around and went over to Sydney Harbour - it was indeed thrilling to see the Harbour Bridge come into view, and even more amazing to finally see the Opera House. I am so glad I got to see it first with Ethan. Our group is going there tomorrow and we are also taking a private tour of the Opera House, but Ethan and I already went in (for a loo stop!) and took a little look around.
We walked by Hyde Park and many other places and went all the way back to Darling Harbour to see if the gelati place we had seen before was still open. Happily, it was, and we both had VERY yummy gelati. After lots more walking we arrived back at the hotel. Ethan stayed a while and then went back to Coogee. We may be able to meet tomorrow night when we have free time for dinner. There was a full moon tonight - beautiful - and I showed Ethan how to find the Southern Cross. Ahhhhhh - wonderful day!
The plane was pretty big and although it was nearly full I ended up sitting in the centre three seats with Linda and no one in the centre of our row, so that was a nice treat. The flight was on time and we got into Sydney a little after 4pm. Unfortunately when we received our suitcases, mine and another person's had been damaged, so we were off to Baggage Services. Initially they wanted me to empty my suitcase and leave it there, but there was no way I was going to do that, so we arranged to have them pick the suitcases up from the hotel the next morning. Apparently mine cannot be repaired and will have to be replaced. It will be interesting to see if the replacement will hold all my things!
We rode to the hotel in a large coach that is used to transport an Australian rugby team. There are two seats up in the front that have red stripes on them; they are for the coaches of the team. We got to the hotel and I was hauling my bags in through the front door and looked to my left and there was Ethan, sitting on the couch!!!!! I must have screamed or squealed or made some kind of exclamation, and dropped everything right there and ran to him -- it was so so so good to see him! He looked great and I couldn't believe I was actually there and we were in the same place! I introduced him to everyone, still a little shaky - of course they all guessed who he was as they knew I was looking forward to seeing him in Sydney. He came with us on a little walk around Sydney. The hotel is not far from Hyde Park and Chinatown, and Roxy showed us a couple of areas for restaurants and a little shopping. I think many people were a little tired from the long day, but Ethan and I walked around and had a fabulous dinner at Darling Harbour at The Meat and Wine Co. Our food was presented in a really beautiful and unusual way and everything was delicious, and of course Ethan was thrilled, as it was the first opportunity for him to go to a very nice restaurant and have a wonderful meal. It felt so good to be together.
After dinner we walked around and went over to Sydney Harbour - it was indeed thrilling to see the Harbour Bridge come into view, and even more amazing to finally see the Opera House. I am so glad I got to see it first with Ethan. Our group is going there tomorrow and we are also taking a private tour of the Opera House, but Ethan and I already went in (for a loo stop!) and took a little look around.
We walked by Hyde Park and many other places and went all the way back to Darling Harbour to see if the gelati place we had seen before was still open. Happily, it was, and we both had VERY yummy gelati. After lots more walking we arrived back at the hotel. Ethan stayed a while and then went back to Coogee. We may be able to meet tomorrow night when we have free time for dinner. There was a full moon tonight - beautiful - and I showed Ethan how to find the Southern Cross. Ahhhhhh - wonderful day!
Sunday, May 29, 2011
Rainforest
Unfortunately this morning mine was one of the cabins without hot water, so I wet my hair and sponge-bathed. All part of the adventure, I guess. We had breakfast - there is a cold buffet and you can order eggs. We eat all our meals outside here and of course I think of Dan and how he would love that. After breakfast we got on the bus with our driver Theon, who will be one of our guides. He lives here with his family and is currently building a house in the area. We drove to the Daintree National Park area and a property on the World Heritage site owned by a woman named Pru who used to be a teacher and headmistress in Victoria before coming out here and living this life for the past 17 years. Roxy told us later that Pru's son, his wife and their kids live with her in an interesting house with very few walls. There is an enclosed bathroom, and except for a couple of walls in the kitchen, the rest mostly opens onto verandahs. The "critters" pretty much come in and out of the house, and apparently she likes it that way. She has fruit orchards and does tours through the rainforest. Roxy divided us into two groups and we had a guided walk through the rainforest to see interesting palms, ferns and plants. This rainforest is supposedly the oldest in the world (at least 140 million years) and can be dated fairly accurately because they know it has never burned. They know this because of a fruit they have found that is very similar to one that was here millions of years ago. The area is full of wildlife, though we didn't see anything today. We did hear beautiful birdsong, and according to Theon, Queensland is supposed to be known as one of the best places for birdsong. There are feral pigs here, snakes and pythons, two kinds of rats and many birds. We heard the orange-footed scrub fowl, which is the one that makes all the noise at night at our lodge. Later in the evening as I was going to dinner I saw several of them. They are large black birds, with orange feet and red heads, and their black tail fans out vertically behind them. I wasn't able to get a photo because it was too dark. After our rainforest walk we came back through the orchard and sat at a beautiful, long wooden table for morning tea, or as Theon told us, a "smoker". I had some delicious Daintree tree and there were plates of dried fruits, cheese and crackers and lamingtons, a kind of sweet cookie with coconut on top.
We drove to Cooper's Creek and got on a flat boat with a guide to look for crocodiles. On the way we saw many different kinds of mangrove trees and their different root systems that allow them to thrive in this region. We saw several crocodiles of different sizes, including a pretty large one on a little island. At one point John, one of our group who is very sweet and very enthusiastic, started shouting very excitedly that he saw a croc - it turned out to be a log! The guide told us that the crocs like to lie across the little inlets because the fish get pushed out of there and the crocs can just open their mouths and get a treat.
We went back to the lodge for lunch - most of us had fish and chips and then we ordered our dinner for the evening. The rest of the afternoon was free, so Susan and I walked from Ferntree Lodge to the beach. It was a pretty good walk though the day was a bit overcast, but it was warm. We walked along the beach and saw the tiny crabs that burrow into holes and we both got photos of them. Susan is a very good photographer has taught me to be patient, focus and take many shots in hopes of getting that good one. She used to be a flight attendant for American Airlines and has done lots of traveling, including many OAT trips. She is just a couple of years older than I am so we are the two "youngsters". We went to a lookout point and then walked back up the beach to the road, stopping along the way at the little town of Daintree with a bar, grocery store, place to stay and souvenir shop. We saw a few people from our group there and then walked back to Ferntree Lodge. I showered and washed my hair (hot water all fixed!) and then sat out on my front porch reading a book Roxy gave me, drinking my wine and having a snack of almonds and a mandarin orange. Felt very relaxed! It is very rustic here and fairly desolate, and at the same time very interesting and beautiful, but I don't think I could spend lots of time here. We seem to have done very well with our time and the activities helped us understand life here, and I think it would take a pretty tough person to stay up here. Margo was saying she was hoping for a little rain as long as we were in the rainforest but aside from some that we heard on our forest walk, we haven't had any. Dinner was again outside at a long group table and the food was really good. I had barramundi and am enjoying trying it made several different ways. We all stayed and talked after dinner, but we have to pack and leave tomorrow after breakfast for our ride back to Cairns and then our flight to Sydney. Can't believe we are already at the Sydney part, and of course I am very excited about seeing Ethan! I have to keep pinching myself and focusing and telling myself I am in AUSTRALIA because before I know it I will be back in Boston and this will all seem like a dream except that I have about a billion photos... I got back to my room and finished getting things ready, and suddenly it began to rain, so I am sure Margo is happy. There is nothing nicer than being inside, warm and dry, and listening to the rain - just hope it is over by the morning!
We drove to Cooper's Creek and got on a flat boat with a guide to look for crocodiles. On the way we saw many different kinds of mangrove trees and their different root systems that allow them to thrive in this region. We saw several crocodiles of different sizes, including a pretty large one on a little island. At one point John, one of our group who is very sweet and very enthusiastic, started shouting very excitedly that he saw a croc - it turned out to be a log! The guide told us that the crocs like to lie across the little inlets because the fish get pushed out of there and the crocs can just open their mouths and get a treat.
We went back to the lodge for lunch - most of us had fish and chips and then we ordered our dinner for the evening. The rest of the afternoon was free, so Susan and I walked from Ferntree Lodge to the beach. It was a pretty good walk though the day was a bit overcast, but it was warm. We walked along the beach and saw the tiny crabs that burrow into holes and we both got photos of them. Susan is a very good photographer has taught me to be patient, focus and take many shots in hopes of getting that good one. She used to be a flight attendant for American Airlines and has done lots of traveling, including many OAT trips. She is just a couple of years older than I am so we are the two "youngsters". We went to a lookout point and then walked back up the beach to the road, stopping along the way at the little town of Daintree with a bar, grocery store, place to stay and souvenir shop. We saw a few people from our group there and then walked back to Ferntree Lodge. I showered and washed my hair (hot water all fixed!) and then sat out on my front porch reading a book Roxy gave me, drinking my wine and having a snack of almonds and a mandarin orange. Felt very relaxed! It is very rustic here and fairly desolate, and at the same time very interesting and beautiful, but I don't think I could spend lots of time here. We seem to have done very well with our time and the activities helped us understand life here, and I think it would take a pretty tough person to stay up here. Margo was saying she was hoping for a little rain as long as we were in the rainforest but aside from some that we heard on our forest walk, we haven't had any. Dinner was again outside at a long group table and the food was really good. I had barramundi and am enjoying trying it made several different ways. We all stayed and talked after dinner, but we have to pack and leave tomorrow after breakfast for our ride back to Cairns and then our flight to Sydney. Can't believe we are already at the Sydney part, and of course I am very excited about seeing Ethan! I have to keep pinching myself and focusing and telling myself I am in AUSTRALIA because before I know it I will be back in Boston and this will all seem like a dream except that I have about a billion photos... I got back to my room and finished getting things ready, and suddenly it began to rain, so I am sure Margo is happy. There is nothing nicer than being inside, warm and dry, and listening to the rain - just hope it is over by the morning!
Tuesday, May 24, 2011
Cape Where?
Sunday, May 15 - This was a nice, easy morning because we weren't leaving the hotel until 12:45, and we were traveling by coach. I woke up early and again went to the gym (what's up with me?) to get a bit of exercise, as usual joined by Connie. We seem to be the only ones in the hotel who use the gym. After showering and finishing my packing I had a late breakfast and then went on a walk down to the beach behind the hotel. It was just beautiful. I don't think I was prepared for how peaceful and lovely it was. There were some paragliders/windsurfers on what looked like snowboards, and the ferns and palms were really lush and lovely. Of course I thought about Dan and how much he would love to be there, looking at the beautiful scenery and walking along the beach. It is times like these that I really ache for him. The wind was blowing but it wasn't cold, and I stopped and sang a song into the wind.
We all met up in the lobby and the bus finally came. It was a small bus with a luggage carrier hooked onto the back. Having experienced the ride from hell the other night I got on and chose the seat right up front behind Roxy, who said we would be having a surprise Learning and Discovery stop. We passed by many sugar can fields and saw train tracks right alongside them. These are for the cars that take the cane that has been cut and deliver it to the right places. We took a tiny detour to see a cane cutter. Roxy showed us Brazilian rain trees as we went through the small town of Mossman, past the Mossman River and out to the Daintree rainforest area. Roxy pointed out the banana trees that had bags on them and asked why we thought there were bags on the bananas. Naturally some people said it was to protect the fruit from insects, weather, etc, but Roxy said, "No, actually Queensland is quite conservative and they felt the bananas looked too phallic...." There was a pause while everyone wondered how that could possibly be and then of course she said she was just joking, but she had said it all in such a serious voice, just like the rest of her guiding, so she had many people going for a while. She has a great sense of humour and fun, and is a wicked mimic.
We saw a field of Brahmins (cattle) and a barramundi farm (this is a wonderful fish that I have eaten a lot of here), and then we took a cable ferry across the Daintree River. There are crocs in the river but we didn't see any on this occasion. The area was discovered by George Dalrymple and he named it for Richard Daintree, who was a botonist but never actually was able to come here. There are lots of feral pigs, poisonous snakes and poisonous plants in the area, and the Kukkalongi people are native here. We tried to look for the flash of blue that can signal a cassowary, a large, flightless bird that lives in this area and is protected. There are many of the diamond-shaped road signs so common throughout Australia but in this area depicting a cassowary, and we kept our eyes peeled but were not successful in sighting any. This became a running joke throughout this part of our trip, with people accusing Roxy of making the whole thing up and having signs put up to make us think these were real birds.
Our Learning and Discovery stop was to an ice cream place where they make their ice creams using unusual fruits native to the area. For $5 we got a cup with four flavours. There were lovely gardens there and some small sugar bananas that some people bought, and also Daintree tea. Got back on the coach and drove through a tea plantation, past Noah Creek and Noah Range. This area can flood very quickly. Roxy told us about an OAT trip that was here and they heard a cyclone was coming - the news and events seemed to warrant action and she arranged for them to be helicoptered out a day early to Cairns, which turned out to be a very good idea. Just before reaching our hotel we saw an echidna by the side of the road so we all had to get out to try to get a photo. Alert readers may remember that the echidna looks a bit like a porcupine, but with soft fur rather than quills.
Our hotel was the Ferntree Rainforest Lodge and we each had "cabins". Nothing fancy but not too primitive either, though no TV or phone. Some of us had a bit of wildlife sharing our quarters. I had a couple of cute geckos, which was fine with me, as they eat mosquitos. My friend Susan had GIANT cockroaches - not a good surprise. What WAS a surprise was seeing Mary Ann, another older member of the group, "eliminating" the unwanted visitors without batting an eye. After settling in we met Roxy for a walk to the beach and a cricket lesson. She had brought one of those kids' cricket sets but it was pretty windy, so after trying to explain cricket (never an easy job!) she decided to teach us beach cricket, which was lots of fun and considerably easier and has basically nothing to do with cricket except you use the cricket bat. We had a really fun time playing, and I noticed that people have become much more comfortable with one another, which is really nice.
Our dinners at the lodge were outdoors under cover at a long table in an area to ourselves. Roxy was saying that most tours do not come to this area and many people have never really heard of it. There is virtually no advertising for the area so few people know about it or can take advantage of the opportunity to come here. It is a somewhat isolated area and not an easy place in which to live, so many of those peopel who do live here are very independent and not inclined to work with others, so there is little cohesion and cooperation for getting anything done that can benefit the region and bring in more business.
Tomorrow we will go on a hike in the rainforest and will also be looking for crocodiles!
We all met up in the lobby and the bus finally came. It was a small bus with a luggage carrier hooked onto the back. Having experienced the ride from hell the other night I got on and chose the seat right up front behind Roxy, who said we would be having a surprise Learning and Discovery stop. We passed by many sugar can fields and saw train tracks right alongside them. These are for the cars that take the cane that has been cut and deliver it to the right places. We took a tiny detour to see a cane cutter. Roxy showed us Brazilian rain trees as we went through the small town of Mossman, past the Mossman River and out to the Daintree rainforest area. Roxy pointed out the banana trees that had bags on them and asked why we thought there were bags on the bananas. Naturally some people said it was to protect the fruit from insects, weather, etc, but Roxy said, "No, actually Queensland is quite conservative and they felt the bananas looked too phallic...." There was a pause while everyone wondered how that could possibly be and then of course she said she was just joking, but she had said it all in such a serious voice, just like the rest of her guiding, so she had many people going for a while. She has a great sense of humour and fun, and is a wicked mimic.
We saw a field of Brahmins (cattle) and a barramundi farm (this is a wonderful fish that I have eaten a lot of here), and then we took a cable ferry across the Daintree River. There are crocs in the river but we didn't see any on this occasion. The area was discovered by George Dalrymple and he named it for Richard Daintree, who was a botonist but never actually was able to come here. There are lots of feral pigs, poisonous snakes and poisonous plants in the area, and the Kukkalongi people are native here. We tried to look for the flash of blue that can signal a cassowary, a large, flightless bird that lives in this area and is protected. There are many of the diamond-shaped road signs so common throughout Australia but in this area depicting a cassowary, and we kept our eyes peeled but were not successful in sighting any. This became a running joke throughout this part of our trip, with people accusing Roxy of making the whole thing up and having signs put up to make us think these were real birds.
Our Learning and Discovery stop was to an ice cream place where they make their ice creams using unusual fruits native to the area. For $5 we got a cup with four flavours. There were lovely gardens there and some small sugar bananas that some people bought, and also Daintree tea. Got back on the coach and drove through a tea plantation, past Noah Creek and Noah Range. This area can flood very quickly. Roxy told us about an OAT trip that was here and they heard a cyclone was coming - the news and events seemed to warrant action and she arranged for them to be helicoptered out a day early to Cairns, which turned out to be a very good idea. Just before reaching our hotel we saw an echidna by the side of the road so we all had to get out to try to get a photo. Alert readers may remember that the echidna looks a bit like a porcupine, but with soft fur rather than quills.
Our hotel was the Ferntree Rainforest Lodge and we each had "cabins". Nothing fancy but not too primitive either, though no TV or phone. Some of us had a bit of wildlife sharing our quarters. I had a couple of cute geckos, which was fine with me, as they eat mosquitos. My friend Susan had GIANT cockroaches - not a good surprise. What WAS a surprise was seeing Mary Ann, another older member of the group, "eliminating" the unwanted visitors without batting an eye. After settling in we met Roxy for a walk to the beach and a cricket lesson. She had brought one of those kids' cricket sets but it was pretty windy, so after trying to explain cricket (never an easy job!) she decided to teach us beach cricket, which was lots of fun and considerably easier and has basically nothing to do with cricket except you use the cricket bat. We had a really fun time playing, and I noticed that people have become much more comfortable with one another, which is really nice.
Our dinners at the lodge were outdoors under cover at a long table in an area to ourselves. Roxy was saying that most tours do not come to this area and many people have never really heard of it. There is virtually no advertising for the area so few people know about it or can take advantage of the opportunity to come here. It is a somewhat isolated area and not an easy place in which to live, so many of those peopel who do live here are very independent and not inclined to work with others, so there is little cohesion and cooperation for getting anything done that can benefit the region and bring in more business.
Tomorrow we will go on a hike in the rainforest and will also be looking for crocodiles!
Monday, May 23, 2011
Reefer Madness
I got up early and believe it or not, went to the gym at the hotel, where Connie (from our group) was already busy on the treadmill. I actually did some good exercising and felt good about being able to do as much as I did, considering I haven't done anything in a while. After breakfast we got ready for the bus trip to the Low Isles, Great Barrier Reef. The bus stopped at a couple of other hotels to pick people up - this is obviously the tourist run - I was interested to see that ours was by far the nicest hotel. Then it was on to the marina which had lots of touristy type shops, but thank goodness we didn't stop. We took a boat to the Low Isle, named of course by Captain Cook in his own inimitable style ("those are certainly some low isles"). There were several activities from which to choose, and all afternoon to do some of them. Some people snorkeled in their stinger suits, some took the glass bottom boat ride, and some took another boat out to a small island with a lighthouse. We saw large sea turtles, batfish and other smaller fish, lots of different kinds of coral and some large stinging rays of the variety that killed Steve Irwin. His attack actually occurred where we were, and he was brought to the little island for immediate treatment. When we took a guided walk around the little island we were shown the little shed to which he was taken and where he died. Not exactly the high point. The weather was beautiful but people were a bit disappointed in the lack of brilliant colour that they expected. The lighthouse on the island was built in the 1870s and the last lighthouse keepers left in the 1990s. It now operates on solar power and electronics. Lunch was provided for us on the "home" boat. The area was very lush and Caribbean-like, and it was sunny and very warm. I confess I did a little sunbathing. The sand is made of crushed coral and the island shape is constantly shifting with erosion and storms but basically stays the same size. On the way back to the marina they shut off the boat engines and put up the sails and it was a lovely ride. Back at the hotel we had a free night so some of us took the free shuttle into Port Douglas and went to a fish restaurant that Roxy recommended called Two Fish. It was a delicious dinner and afterwards Susan and I walk up and down the main drag of Port Douglas and I got some wine to bring back to have at our next stop, Cape Tribulation, which is out in the middle of NOWHERE. We are not leaving until 12:30 tomorrow and will be traveling by bus, so there is no rush and packing isn't going to be too much of a hassle. I have been pleasantly surprised to find that when you fly domestically in the country you don't have to take your shoes off or remove liquids, etc. Very civilised. I used the internet at the hotel a bit in the evening - it was too expensive to use mine in my room. I have been frustrated not to be able to keep up my blog in real time, but I figured I could catch up in Sydney.
I can't believe we are already at this point in the trip, but it has also been so full and wonderful. It feels like we are a cohesive, good group, and from the funny and weird stories Roxy tells about past groups and those who have been on other OAT trips, we do seem to be a particularly good mix. I am really happy that I will be able to spend extra time in Sydney, and of course I can't wait to see Ethan there. I am trying not to think about going home - I'm not ready yet! I am not the only one staying on after the end of the trip - two couples (a brother and sister and their spouses) are going to Melbourne to stay with their other brother and his family and Marcia is visiting friends in Perth. She is a lovely and very interesting person - she has two cochlear implants and lost her hearing many years ago, and was one of the earliest advocates for the rights of hearing impaired. She is pretty famous in Philadelphia and is such a sweet, unassuming person. She speech-reads very well and gets along fine.
Tomorrow - Cape Tribulation and the rainforest!
I can't believe we are already at this point in the trip, but it has also been so full and wonderful. It feels like we are a cohesive, good group, and from the funny and weird stories Roxy tells about past groups and those who have been on other OAT trips, we do seem to be a particularly good mix. I am really happy that I will be able to spend extra time in Sydney, and of course I can't wait to see Ethan there. I am trying not to think about going home - I'm not ready yet! I am not the only one staying on after the end of the trip - two couples (a brother and sister and their spouses) are going to Melbourne to stay with their other brother and his family and Marcia is visiting friends in Perth. She is a lovely and very interesting person - she has two cochlear implants and lost her hearing many years ago, and was one of the earliest advocates for the rights of hearing impaired. She is pretty famous in Philadelphia and is such a sweet, unassuming person. She speech-reads very well and gets along fine.
Tomorrow - Cape Tribulation and the rainforest!
Sunday, May 22, 2011
More Amazing Rocks
May 13: Some of us were up very early to get ready for our sunrise walk with Roxy to the dunes behind the hotel. It was cold in the morning but we saw the sun shine on Uluru and The Olgas and it was beautiful. We went off to breakfast and then got on the coach for the ride to the Olgas, which are called Kata Tjuta by the Aboriginals. On the bus ride Roxy answered some of the questions people had submitted from the previous day - anything was fair game. (No, she doesn't know where Hugh Jackma lives and we aren't going to see him and she is VERY sorry.) There was a question about what the prospects were for the Aboriginals in the long term and she talked about her concerns for their culture, given their current health and economic issues, as well as their clash with the white man's laws. She contrasted this with the Maoris in her native New Zealand, where the government has made a concerted effort to respect and integrate the native peoples, and also the fact that there is only one Maori language, which makes it easier for the people to communicate and get together. She also explained the recent governmental response to illegal immigration from Indonesia, and the detention camps that have been set up in Australia, and the most recent, controversial plans to send people from the detention centres to Malaysia in exchange for immigrants who have already been vetted.
We arrived at Kata Tjuta and went on a walk to the Wolpa Gorge - it was incredibly beautiful. Very windy at the beginning but the wind eventually stopped. It wasn't a very strenuous walk but the views were stunning and it was just wonderful. I found Kata Tjuta much more interesting and beautiful than Uluru.
New Aussie slang word - "parky" means chilly. Kata Tjuta means "many heads" - there are 36 that make up the Olgas. We had a loo stop after that with a "long drop" toilet (non-flushing, but not at all smelly or gross). Roxy said to be careful not to drop anything in there by mistake, but if we did, to make sure to drop our wallet in, as it would be better to at least be going after something important if we had to go in at all.... The sign above the toilet said, "This toilet is for your pleasant convenience". And it was!
We drove to a viewing area to take some photos of Uluru and Kata Tjuta, then to the Cultural Centre where we walked through a small museum and watched a film about wildlife in the desert. We saw some aboriginal crafts but not a native in sight - I was hoping there would be more cultural stuff but not touristy cultural demonstrations by happy natives. Outside on the way to the bus Roxy pointed out a chain of caterpillars attached to each other and making a trail in the dirt, just like the Aboriginal story of the patterns on Uluru made by the trail of the sacred caterpillar.
We went on to the airport where we boarded our plane to Cairns. I managed to have a window seat in a row all to myself on the right side of the plane and saw beautiful views of Uluru and Kata Tjuta. During the flight we put our watches ahead one hour for Cairns time. We are now in Queensland, with the temperature a beautiful 23 degrees Celsius at 6:15pm - quite a bit warmer than we have been experiencing, but the Cairns people were complaining that it is getting chilly! We had to drive 50 minutes from Cairns to our hotel in Port Douglas and talked on the way about the history of the area. At one time Cairns and Port Douglas were vying to be the most important port city, and Port Douglas won out until it was devastated by a cyclone and Cairns won the title by default. Tourism and sugar cane production are two of the most important industries.Tomorrow we will take a boat over to an island in the Great Barrier Reef for snorkeling, glass bottom boat rides and whatever else we might enjoy. For snorkeling we need to wear "stinger suits" - there are two kinds of jellyfish (stingers) that can be found in the water, usually not at this time of year, but it wouldn't be good to chance it. The stinger suits are special lycra suits with a hood and mittens.
The bus ride was very twisty and wound around the coastline, and I was feeling a bit icky. We stopped at a grocery and liquor store as the food at our hotel is pretty expensive. We went on to our hotel, The Sea Temple Resort and Spa, where we were given a non-alcoholic fruit drink and got a ride to our rooms in carts. I had a pretty nice room with a huge Jacuzzi, which I made full use of that first evening, of course thinking of Dan who would definitely have done the same.
We arrived at Kata Tjuta and went on a walk to the Wolpa Gorge - it was incredibly beautiful. Very windy at the beginning but the wind eventually stopped. It wasn't a very strenuous walk but the views were stunning and it was just wonderful. I found Kata Tjuta much more interesting and beautiful than Uluru.
New Aussie slang word - "parky" means chilly. Kata Tjuta means "many heads" - there are 36 that make up the Olgas. We had a loo stop after that with a "long drop" toilet (non-flushing, but not at all smelly or gross). Roxy said to be careful not to drop anything in there by mistake, but if we did, to make sure to drop our wallet in, as it would be better to at least be going after something important if we had to go in at all.... The sign above the toilet said, "This toilet is for your pleasant convenience". And it was!
We drove to a viewing area to take some photos of Uluru and Kata Tjuta, then to the Cultural Centre where we walked through a small museum and watched a film about wildlife in the desert. We saw some aboriginal crafts but not a native in sight - I was hoping there would be more cultural stuff but not touristy cultural demonstrations by happy natives. Outside on the way to the bus Roxy pointed out a chain of caterpillars attached to each other and making a trail in the dirt, just like the Aboriginal story of the patterns on Uluru made by the trail of the sacred caterpillar.
We went on to the airport where we boarded our plane to Cairns. I managed to have a window seat in a row all to myself on the right side of the plane and saw beautiful views of Uluru and Kata Tjuta. During the flight we put our watches ahead one hour for Cairns time. We are now in Queensland, with the temperature a beautiful 23 degrees Celsius at 6:15pm - quite a bit warmer than we have been experiencing, but the Cairns people were complaining that it is getting chilly! We had to drive 50 minutes from Cairns to our hotel in Port Douglas and talked on the way about the history of the area. At one time Cairns and Port Douglas were vying to be the most important port city, and Port Douglas won out until it was devastated by a cyclone and Cairns won the title by default. Tourism and sugar cane production are two of the most important industries.Tomorrow we will take a boat over to an island in the Great Barrier Reef for snorkeling, glass bottom boat rides and whatever else we might enjoy. For snorkeling we need to wear "stinger suits" - there are two kinds of jellyfish (stingers) that can be found in the water, usually not at this time of year, but it wouldn't be good to chance it. The stinger suits are special lycra suits with a hood and mittens.
The bus ride was very twisty and wound around the coastline, and I was feeling a bit icky. We stopped at a grocery and liquor store as the food at our hotel is pretty expensive. We went on to our hotel, The Sea Temple Resort and Spa, where we were given a non-alcoholic fruit drink and got a ride to our rooms in carts. I had a pretty nice room with a huge Jacuzzi, which I made full use of that first evening, of course thinking of Dan who would definitely have done the same.
Saturday, May 21, 2011
Uluru!
May 12: After breakfast we were again on a bus to Ayers Rock, called Uluru now as that is its Ab-ORIGINAL name (get it?). On the way we passed the brand new Alice Springs dialysis unit created mostly for the Aboriginal people who have experiences a very high incidence of diabetes and kidney problems - they have over 50 machines to deal with this growing issue. After an hour of driving we stopped at the Camel Farm - mostly for a loo stop but also to look around a bit. Camels were introduced to Australia initially from the Canary Islands and were very useful for all kinds of jobs. Then when things became more mechanised most of them were turned loose and they roam free. Some areas have camel races that are very popular. At this farm in addition to the camels we saw emu, kangaroos and a pet dingo. Camel rides were on offer for a fee but most of us have "been there, done that" in other places much more well known for their camels, so we passed.
Back on the bus we learned more about this part of the country. When the first white settlers came they designated Central Australia as "Terra Nouleous", or land of no people, so there was no recognition of the Aboriginal peoples, let alone anu thought of rights for them. This designation was in effect until 1992, when the government began a programme to return land to the Aboriginals. However, much of the land given was not their original land, and was no good; for example, some of the land given back had been used by the British for atomic testing. John McDowell Stuart was an early white explorer, the first to explore from the south the north to determine if the centre of the country was habitable. I guess he could have asked the people who had been living there for so many years, but that probably didn't occur to him....
We saw Owen Springs, a huge ranch and preserve, and a sign for a town called Endurance, which gives you an idea of the kind of life lived out in this part of the country. We saw road trains, which are like connected trucks and can be very long, especially when they are carrying oil. They can have 5-6 carriages and can take up to a km to stop. We also saw a large hay farm that was begun in the 1980s and grows lucerne (what we call alfalfa) - they have a special system for continually supplying water to this area that gets very little rainfall. It is quite expensive so it can't be used by many of the cattle breeders and ranchers.
We also learned a bit about Aboriginal Dreamtime, which is not like what we think of as the Native American dreams which are connected with the use of hallucinogenics. Dreamtime is a system of stories, laws and morality for now and the hereafter, similar to the Koran and Torah.
We made a Learning and Discovery stop at the Finke River (Larrapunta), one of the largest rivers in the world. It is a meandering river, made on a flat plain before the ranges sprang up. The land tilted and that is what makes the meandering possible. We saw marks on a bridge indicating lines of past flooding, and there was actually more rain than usual this year, meaning more water in the river.
We actually saw some wild camels on our ride - pretty interesting.
We stopped for lunch at Curtin Springs, which is a cattle breeding farm and provides housing for workers and tourists. It has the only fuel pump until the town of Yularra, near Uluru. Peter Severin started the farm in 1956 and is 80 now. He has always had very definite ideas about the Aboriginals (not very favourable). During our lunch there his daughter-in-law spoke with us about the history of the farm, all the work they do and the problems they have dealt with and continue to experience.
Then it was finally on to Uluru. Our hotel is the Outback Pioneer Motel and Lodge in Yularra. Accommodations in Ayers Rock are very expensive so most people stay in Yularra. There is one petrol station there and no prices are advertised because it is the only one!
We drove to Uluru, which is a monolith and very beautiful and impressive, rising up from the desert floor. We went on a couple of lovely walks and saw beautiful trees and plants and rock formations. Some areas were designated sacred and we were not allowed to photograph. We saw a road leading to an Aboriginal area - no one is allowed to go there unless invited by an elder. There are 4 groups of people for whom Uluru is important and they belong to the Anu people. Phil, our coach driver, guided us and told some of the Aboriginal stories about how certain features of the rock came to be. We saw the area where people are allowed (but not encouraged) to climb - it is very scary looking and many people have died, not only WHILE attempting, but often of heart issues days later. It did not look like a great idea. We ended up in the place where they set up a "sundowner" for the different groups who come to visit. Each group gets tables set up with hors d'oeuvres, orange juice and champagne and the coach driver had camp chairs for us to relax in while we watched the sun set over Uluru. Of course it was very beautiful, and lots of fun being together. Back at the hotel we had dinner outside and then back to our rooms. Some of us will be joining Roxy in the very early in the morning for a walk to the dunes behind our hotel where we can see the sun rise over Uluru and the Olgas, where we will be walking tomorrow.
Back on the bus we learned more about this part of the country. When the first white settlers came they designated Central Australia as "Terra Nouleous", or land of no people, so there was no recognition of the Aboriginal peoples, let alone anu thought of rights for them. This designation was in effect until 1992, when the government began a programme to return land to the Aboriginals. However, much of the land given was not their original land, and was no good; for example, some of the land given back had been used by the British for atomic testing. John McDowell Stuart was an early white explorer, the first to explore from the south the north to determine if the centre of the country was habitable. I guess he could have asked the people who had been living there for so many years, but that probably didn't occur to him....
We saw Owen Springs, a huge ranch and preserve, and a sign for a town called Endurance, which gives you an idea of the kind of life lived out in this part of the country. We saw road trains, which are like connected trucks and can be very long, especially when they are carrying oil. They can have 5-6 carriages and can take up to a km to stop. We also saw a large hay farm that was begun in the 1980s and grows lucerne (what we call alfalfa) - they have a special system for continually supplying water to this area that gets very little rainfall. It is quite expensive so it can't be used by many of the cattle breeders and ranchers.
We also learned a bit about Aboriginal Dreamtime, which is not like what we think of as the Native American dreams which are connected with the use of hallucinogenics. Dreamtime is a system of stories, laws and morality for now and the hereafter, similar to the Koran and Torah.
We made a Learning and Discovery stop at the Finke River (Larrapunta), one of the largest rivers in the world. It is a meandering river, made on a flat plain before the ranges sprang up. The land tilted and that is what makes the meandering possible. We saw marks on a bridge indicating lines of past flooding, and there was actually more rain than usual this year, meaning more water in the river.
We actually saw some wild camels on our ride - pretty interesting.
We stopped for lunch at Curtin Springs, which is a cattle breeding farm and provides housing for workers and tourists. It has the only fuel pump until the town of Yularra, near Uluru. Peter Severin started the farm in 1956 and is 80 now. He has always had very definite ideas about the Aboriginals (not very favourable). During our lunch there his daughter-in-law spoke with us about the history of the farm, all the work they do and the problems they have dealt with and continue to experience.
Then it was finally on to Uluru. Our hotel is the Outback Pioneer Motel and Lodge in Yularra. Accommodations in Ayers Rock are very expensive so most people stay in Yularra. There is one petrol station there and no prices are advertised because it is the only one!
We drove to Uluru, which is a monolith and very beautiful and impressive, rising up from the desert floor. We went on a couple of lovely walks and saw beautiful trees and plants and rock formations. Some areas were designated sacred and we were not allowed to photograph. We saw a road leading to an Aboriginal area - no one is allowed to go there unless invited by an elder. There are 4 groups of people for whom Uluru is important and they belong to the Anu people. Phil, our coach driver, guided us and told some of the Aboriginal stories about how certain features of the rock came to be. We saw the area where people are allowed (but not encouraged) to climb - it is very scary looking and many people have died, not only WHILE attempting, but often of heart issues days later. It did not look like a great idea. We ended up in the place where they set up a "sundowner" for the different groups who come to visit. Each group gets tables set up with hors d'oeuvres, orange juice and champagne and the coach driver had camp chairs for us to relax in while we watched the sun set over Uluru. Of course it was very beautiful, and lots of fun being together. Back at the hotel we had dinner outside and then back to our rooms. Some of us will be joining Roxy in the very early in the morning for a walk to the dunes behind our hotel where we can see the sun rise over Uluru and the Olgas, where we will be walking tomorrow.
Friday, May 20, 2011
Outback Adventure
May 11 - After breakfast we got on the coach with our native guide, Lindsey. He is an activist for the Aboriginal people and very down to earth and honest about the issues and problems. He has blue eyes and looks like a white person, whereas most of us picture Aboriginals as being black. He has 7 children with 6 different mothers. There are many different languages and also dialects among the native people, and groups might be able to communicate with groups two communities over, but not much after that. This is very different from the situation in New Zealand with the Maoris, where there is one language and where the government has also been very proactive in helping the native people.
We drove to Corroboree Rock, an important meeting place and site for song and dance ceremonies. The parentie lizard is a sacred animal for these people and figures in many stories. Lindsey talked a little (but not much) about "men's business" - the secret rituals and initiations. Traditionally the grandfather determines when a boy is ready to begin the process. The boys are taught songs that impart the crucial information about their history, folklore, rules, information for life and survival. All the boys have to learn this together and when they recite it back, if one leaves out even one word they all have to do it again, because if they are out in the bush each one has to know everything. The "tests" for "passing" and having the knowledge are intended to make the boy strong and to learn to withstand pain and adversity - a tooth is knocked out, they are burned and cut in various rituals, etc. There is also "women's business", but Lindsey said he knows nothing about that at all, despite being married, as it is none of his business. As we walked he showed us various trees, wild fruits and plants, and he also told us the procedure for ritually cooking a kangaroo.
We drove to Jessie Gap, walked there and then also to Emily Gap, a ceremony area for many groups. Groups many not enter another group's area without permission - in the old days one could be killed for violating this. Lindsey talked about the terrible health problems amongst the natives - there is a high rate of diabetes, dietary issues and kidney problems, requiring dialysis. Also, because children now are required to attend school, initiations are often done earlier than they should, so as Lindsey put it, "You get men with kid brains", which is a big problem. Aboriginal people live in their own communities and don't interact much with white people. Lindsey will be joining us tonight for our BBQ that Roxy is giving, so we will have more time to talk with him.
We came back to town for lunch and then to the reptile centre to see some of the critters and have a chance to hold some of them. I held a bearded dragon, a bit bigger than the ones Micah and Josh have, was kissed by a blue-tongued skink. and had an olive python wrapped around me. Very interesting....
We were then off to the School of the Air, to see how they educate children who live on stations and in isolated areas. Each of them has a home tutor, usually a parent, but not always, and they receive materials, books, etc. from the government. They attend school via the internet and it is interactive. Once a year they come to Alice Springs with their tutor and families for an in-school week with lots of activities and which culminates in a fun kind of sports day festival. It gives the kids a chance to meet each other and be in a social situation with other kids. This year is the 60th anniversary of the Alice Springs School of the Air, which was the first one in the country. As this was in-school week we were able to see an actual class there together, singing a song with the music teacher that they had all learned at home on their own.
Free time in town followed and then the BBQ for dinner. Lindsey was there and we had a lovely dinner, with loads of meat on the grill and one delicious piece of yummy fish that Roxy got just for me. After many of our group went off to bed I stayed up with Roxy, Lindsey and a couple from our group named John and Connie. Lindsey's wife and youngest son came to pick him up and ended up staying to chat with us, so it was an interesting and fun evening. In the morning we have to be packed up by 7am - we are off to Ayers Rock.
We drove to Corroboree Rock, an important meeting place and site for song and dance ceremonies. The parentie lizard is a sacred animal for these people and figures in many stories. Lindsey talked a little (but not much) about "men's business" - the secret rituals and initiations. Traditionally the grandfather determines when a boy is ready to begin the process. The boys are taught songs that impart the crucial information about their history, folklore, rules, information for life and survival. All the boys have to learn this together and when they recite it back, if one leaves out even one word they all have to do it again, because if they are out in the bush each one has to know everything. The "tests" for "passing" and having the knowledge are intended to make the boy strong and to learn to withstand pain and adversity - a tooth is knocked out, they are burned and cut in various rituals, etc. There is also "women's business", but Lindsey said he knows nothing about that at all, despite being married, as it is none of his business. As we walked he showed us various trees, wild fruits and plants, and he also told us the procedure for ritually cooking a kangaroo.
We drove to Jessie Gap, walked there and then also to Emily Gap, a ceremony area for many groups. Groups many not enter another group's area without permission - in the old days one could be killed for violating this. Lindsey talked about the terrible health problems amongst the natives - there is a high rate of diabetes, dietary issues and kidney problems, requiring dialysis. Also, because children now are required to attend school, initiations are often done earlier than they should, so as Lindsey put it, "You get men with kid brains", which is a big problem. Aboriginal people live in their own communities and don't interact much with white people. Lindsey will be joining us tonight for our BBQ that Roxy is giving, so we will have more time to talk with him.
We came back to town for lunch and then to the reptile centre to see some of the critters and have a chance to hold some of them. I held a bearded dragon, a bit bigger than the ones Micah and Josh have, was kissed by a blue-tongued skink. and had an olive python wrapped around me. Very interesting....
We were then off to the School of the Air, to see how they educate children who live on stations and in isolated areas. Each of them has a home tutor, usually a parent, but not always, and they receive materials, books, etc. from the government. They attend school via the internet and it is interactive. Once a year they come to Alice Springs with their tutor and families for an in-school week with lots of activities and which culminates in a fun kind of sports day festival. It gives the kids a chance to meet each other and be in a social situation with other kids. This year is the 60th anniversary of the Alice Springs School of the Air, which was the first one in the country. As this was in-school week we were able to see an actual class there together, singing a song with the music teacher that they had all learned at home on their own.
Free time in town followed and then the BBQ for dinner. Lindsey was there and we had a lovely dinner, with loads of meat on the grill and one delicious piece of yummy fish that Roxy got just for me. After many of our group went off to bed I stayed up with Roxy, Lindsey and a couple from our group named John and Connie. Lindsey's wife and youngest son came to pick him up and ended up staying to chat with us, so it was an interesting and fun evening. In the morning we have to be packed up by 7am - we are off to Ayers Rock.
A Town Like Alice
Tuesday, May 10: The trip is going so well and this is a really a very nice group of people. We are obviously feeling very comfortable with one another and enjoying being together. Today we were off on the bus to the airport for our flight to Alice Springs. On the way Roxy was telling us about the recent increasing violence in Alice Springs amongst the aboriginal people. We were told not to go into town at night and to avoid being by the river, where many of the native people congregate and troubles can occur. Partly because of the problem one of our dinners in town will be a BBQ hosted/cooked by Roxy at our hotel. Our Aussie slang for the day is "bonza", meaning great, really good.
We arrived in Alice Springs a little after noon. They are on the same time as Adelaide. Alice Springs is in the Northern Territory, which has 20% of the land mass and 1% of the population. Darwin is the capital and beef cattle breeding, horticulture and agriculture are the main occupations. The Arrante group of Aboriginal people are predonimant here and the caterpillar is their spirit. Unemployment is very high among the native people - 65-70% compared with around 1% for white people.
After settling into our hotel we all walked together into town and found places to have lunch. After a bit of free time we met to go to the Royal Flying Doctor Service to learn about the work they do in rescue service and bringing medical service to remote areas. Then we took a bus to the Overland Telegraph Station, which was the site of the original town of Alice Springs. Our guide at OTS was Alec, who was one of the "half-caste" children involved in a sad part of Australian history. Many of these children were taken from their parents by the government in a misguided effort to integrate them into white society, encourage them to intermarry and eventually "become white". Children were forcibly taken away in many cases and had no idea who their parents were, and many times never were reunited or only found their families many years later. They missed important life cycle events and rituals/initiations that needed to be performed at certain ages so that boys could become men. Alec came to the OTS when he was very young, so he has no memories of his aboriginal mother, but his Scottish father did keep in touch with him over the years. He has an amazingly positive attitude about all this and feels that this saved his life, as his mother wasn't able to care for him, and he was able to get an education and learn skills that enabled him to feel successful. He eventually made his way to Darwin and found that he could box, and he had a very successful career in Sydney until his wife finally told him to stop as she was afraid about his health. He worked for the electrical company for many years and now conducts tours of the OTS and has a remarkable memory for a man of nearly 80. He also gave us a demonstration of how to throw a boomerang and showed us how he can crack two large bullwhips at once. He said he could kill a snake with one.
On the way back we stopped at Anzac Hill where there are monuments to soldiers who died in the two world wars and other conflicts. We watched the sun set, which was lovely but very fast! Dinner was at the Red Ochre where we all ate at one large table. Tomorrow we will be doing the Outback Trip with Lindsey, who is an aboriginal man.
We arrived in Alice Springs a little after noon. They are on the same time as Adelaide. Alice Springs is in the Northern Territory, which has 20% of the land mass and 1% of the population. Darwin is the capital and beef cattle breeding, horticulture and agriculture are the main occupations. The Arrante group of Aboriginal people are predonimant here and the caterpillar is their spirit. Unemployment is very high among the native people - 65-70% compared with around 1% for white people.
After settling into our hotel we all walked together into town and found places to have lunch. After a bit of free time we met to go to the Royal Flying Doctor Service to learn about the work they do in rescue service and bringing medical service to remote areas. Then we took a bus to the Overland Telegraph Station, which was the site of the original town of Alice Springs. Our guide at OTS was Alec, who was one of the "half-caste" children involved in a sad part of Australian history. Many of these children were taken from their parents by the government in a misguided effort to integrate them into white society, encourage them to intermarry and eventually "become white". Children were forcibly taken away in many cases and had no idea who their parents were, and many times never were reunited or only found their families many years later. They missed important life cycle events and rituals/initiations that needed to be performed at certain ages so that boys could become men. Alec came to the OTS when he was very young, so he has no memories of his aboriginal mother, but his Scottish father did keep in touch with him over the years. He has an amazingly positive attitude about all this and feels that this saved his life, as his mother wasn't able to care for him, and he was able to get an education and learn skills that enabled him to feel successful. He eventually made his way to Darwin and found that he could box, and he had a very successful career in Sydney until his wife finally told him to stop as she was afraid about his health. He worked for the electrical company for many years and now conducts tours of the OTS and has a remarkable memory for a man of nearly 80. He also gave us a demonstration of how to throw a boomerang and showed us how he can crack two large bullwhips at once. He said he could kill a snake with one.
On the way back we stopped at Anzac Hill where there are monuments to soldiers who died in the two world wars and other conflicts. We watched the sun set, which was lovely but very fast! Dinner was at the Red Ochre where we all ate at one large table. Tomorrow we will be doing the Outback Trip with Lindsey, who is an aboriginal man.
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